2004 Louis Roederer Cristal Rose

Still a baby, the 2004 Cristal Rosé has begun to put on considerable weight over the last few years, which only serves to balance the focus and tension that have always been present. Even at eleven years of age, the 2004 Cristal Rosé remains tightly wound and a touch austere at times. Hints of orange peel, white pepper and cranberry add an exotic flair on the deeply expressive finish. Readers who can find the 2004 should not hesitate, as it is simply stunning by any measure.

60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay (20% wines vinified in oak barrels with weekly bâtonnage). Six years' ageing on lees before disgorgement and rests for eight months after disgorgement. Dosage 8-10 g/l. No malo. Looks similar in colour to a pale Provence rosé. Initial impression is toasty, struck-match notes. Then the Victoria plum fruit shows more on the palate but it is not so much the flavour as the intensity and strident freshness that dominates at the moment. Power and class combined. Goes on and on. But still way overpriced in terms of pleasure/price ratio. (JH)

The 2004 Cristal Rosé, from magnum, is less expressive than the Cristal. Today it is too soon to tell how much of that may be attributable to the larger format. The 2004 Cristal Rosé is 70% Pinot from Aÿ and 30% Chardonnay from Avize. This remains a very tight, mineral-driven Cristal Rosé that will require significant bottle age. A final burst of floral red berries on the finish bodes well for the future. Today I prefer the Cristal over the Cristal Rosé, but time will ultimately tell how these wines develop. I recently tasted the 1996s and it is now appears the Rosé has moved ahead, if very slightly, from the Cristal. The 2004 Cristal Rosé was disgorged in December 2009 and dosage was 9 grams per liter.