2003 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau

Shows a drop dead gorgeous nose of ripe, spicy fruit, roast herbs, licorice, stone and meat aromas. Medium to full bodied with a great texture, velvety tannins and plenty of length.

The 2003 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape has turned out well. Deep ruby with some purple nuances, this wine is medium to full-bodied and reveals notes of licorice, pepper, Asian spices, black cherry, raspberry, and currant, as well as a relatively big, sweet palate impression with moderate tannin in the finish. It is accessible, but will benefit from 2-3 years of aging. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Importers: Vieux Telegraphe and Pigoulet: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; Chateau La Roquette: Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

Dark red. Understated aromas of dried strawberry, redcurrant and garrigue complicated by a whiff of black tea. A fairly restrained midweight, atypical in this vintage, with dried red berry and mocha flavors. Finishes focused and taut, with dusty tannins and hints of red plum and licorice. Those who fear the 2003 bogeyman can safely give this one a try.