2010 Chablis Vaudesir

Readers will find an open, seductive and totally beautiful wine in the 2010 Chablis Vaudesir. An endless array of aromas and flavors emerges from the glass as this gorgeous wine shows off its immense pedigree and class. Nothing in particular stands out; instead it is the wine’s sheer pleasure that is most captivating. In 2010, the Vaudesir is pure sensuality. Already alluring today, it also has enough depth to drink well for a number of years. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Guillaume Gicqueau-Michel describes 2011 as a synthesis of 2009 and 2010, with the fleshiness of the former and the tension of the latter. Yields came in around historical averages, as opposed to 2010, which was down 20% across the board. The 2011s were born with considerable flesh, and were therefore spent less time on their lees than normal, with the exception of the grand crus. I tasted all of the 2011s from tank. Michel planned to bottle his 2011 premier crus in October 2012 and the grand crus the following spring. By comparison the 2010s saw extremely long fermentations, partly because of the estate’s reliance on natural yeasts. Like all growers in Chablis in this vintage, Michel described the vintage as significantly influenced by a complicated flowering that lowered yields and produced a high incidence of shatter and shot grapes. The 2010 grand crus were bottled in mid-April 2012. I was surprised by how well the wines are drinking today. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Subtle if slightly exotic aromas of apricot, peach and orange blossom. Beautifully balanced in a fruit-driven style, with an enticing sugar/acid balance accentuating the wine's mid-palate precision. This firmly built, very fruity grand cru will be accessible young but has the energy and intensity to age well.

The 2010 Chablis Vaudésir opens with exotic, racy notes that suggest tropical fruit. It is an unusually radiant, buttery Chablis that stands apart from most of the other wines in this lineup for its up-front fruit and exuberant personality. A buttery, expansive finish rounds out this generous Chablis.