2004 Chablis Vaudesir

This is aromatically quite a bit riper with peach, pear and subtle exotic notes yet this remains extremely fresh while introducing spicy, rich and full flavors that display a bit of pain grillé and vanilla on the big, powerful and punchy finish that goes on and on seemingly without end. This possesses lots of personality and while the Valmur, for all its purity and grace makes for an understated effort, the Vaudésir is far more expressive, indeed showier though by no means vulgar or common. A completely different expression from the Les Clos and Valmur and in short, this is a real stunner of a wine.

The nose of the 2004 Chablis Vaudesir (domaine) displays aromas reminiscent of quartz, nectar, sea salt, minerals, and candied lemons. Though youthfully tight, this wine’s enormous depth of fruit, concentration, and magnificently pure, lengthy finish are unmistakable. Its flavor profile, composed of chalk, stones, and pears, will require cellaring before fully blossoming. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Note: All the William Fevre wines tasted for this report are “domaine” bottlings, from the estate’s 40 hectares of vines (98.84 acres), which is clearly marked on the label. There are also Maison William Fevre – negociant – bottlings, none of which were tasted. The rapidity with which Joseph Henriot turned around this once moribund estate is remarkable. Under the supervision and winemaking of super-talented Didier Seguier (from Cucq-Les-Vielmur in France’s southwest, near Castres), Domaine William Fevre has been catapulted into the top echelon of Chablis’s producers (and if you don’t believe me, just ask Vincent Dauvissat or Bernard Raveneau). Didier Seguier attributes the estate’s success in 2004 to two key factors, “the fact that we treated the vines early and therefore did not have oidium problems,” and, just as importantly, “our yields were lower than most because this estate’s vines are over 40 years old and cannot produce plethoric quantities.” On average, across the entire estate, William Fevre harvested 60-65 hectoliters per hectares, 10-15% less than two of this region’s most famous stars, Vincent Dauvissat and the Raveneau brothers. Though Seguier loves his 2004s (“They are precise, classical Chablis.”), his preference is for the 2002s, “the finest vintage I’ve experienced.” Importer: Henriot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6700

Quite broad palate attack. Big and beefy for a Chablis. Impact easily disguises the acidity. Very long. (JR)