2008 Chablis Vaudesir
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Tasting notes
Exuberantly sweetly-fruited, the Billaud 2008 Chablis Vaudesir is redolent of and brims with purple plum, pineapple, quince and peach, hauntingly wreathed in gentian and violet perfume. Liquid perfume carries all the way across the glossy, plush palate, while peach kernel bitterness, salinity, and chalkiness add to a complex, interactive finish. Here is one of those 2008 Chablis that put me in mind of Riesling in its primary fruit intensity, perfume, and dynamic. Fusil, bittersweetly herbal, and downright stony notes are seamlessly integrated into and help extend the finish of this beauty, apt to be worth following for at least a decade. Bernard Billaud agreed this year to show me his young grand crus in advance of their anticipated May or June bottling, even though they were on their finings. In addition, I was able to have my first taste of his 2007 grand crus. Imported by Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Pale yellow-straw color. A bit more exotic on the nose than the Montee de Tonnerre, offering ripe stone fruit and hazelnut nuances. Then sweeter and more pliant in the mouth but more classic than the nose suggests, with an impression of strong extract and lovely lift to the peach and floral flavors. Comes across as rather tight today, owing to its saline quality and good energy and cut. Finishes chewy and long, with a slightly aggressive youthful character. This also needs several years of patience.