2004 Barbaresco Valeirano Riserva
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The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Valeirano, from magnum, smells like walking into a room full of white truffles. Not bad. Like the Starderi, the Valeriano has maintained gorgeous freshness in the big bottle, with plenty of vibrancy, especially on the palate. The aromatics are a bit more forward than the expression of fruit, so I would prefer to drink the 2004 sooner rather than later, before that gap becomes more apparent. Worn-in leather, tobacco, smoke and licorice all flesh out on the pliant, expressive finish.
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Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
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This wine was tasted in a magnum. The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Vigneto Valeirano is my favorite wine of the bunch. Those delicate tones of dried ginger, white truffle, pressed flower and rose petal are gorgeous on every conceivable level. The wine is dark, ethereal and brooding. Never still, it displays a quick succession of evolutionary phases even after a few minutes in the glass. I wouldn’t even think of touching this bottle for another ten years. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2035. Giorgio Rivetti has unveiled a stunning line of new wines, and a few surprises as well, from his impeccable winery and tasting room at the foot of the Grinzane Cavour castle. The line of Riserva Barbarescos and Riserva Barolo will only be bottled in magnums in the best vintages. The year 2004 is the inaugural vintage of these special releases. Giorgio purchased a beautiful estate in the Grinzane Cavour estate for making Barolo. His vineyard graces a dome-shaped hill and is planted with 55- to 60-year-old Nebbiolo vines. Importers: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale, FL; tel. (954) 530-4021; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300