1993 Louis Roederer Cristal

We finished this vertical with the 1993 Cristal from magnum in a late disgorgement that was almost launched as the first new wine in the Vinothèque program. In the end, Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon felt that 1993 was not strong enough to be the debut release. From magnum, the 1993 offers up an exciting mélange of lemon confit, marzipan, dried flowers, baked apple tart and brioche. A touch of reduction lingers on the subtle finish. It’s an interesting wine to taste, as 1993 got lost in the interest over 1990 and then 1995 and 1996. “For us, 1993 was a perfect year until the end of August,” Lécaillon told me. “We had a beautiful summer, and then it poured the entire month of September. Naturally, the wines have an element of dilution.” From magnum, and with the textural complexity that develops over time, the 1993 is an attractive Cristal, although it lacks the distinction, nuance and pedigree of the truly great years. As the bookend to this tasting, the 1993 also clearly belongs to another era in which the wines had less precision than they do today. The contrasts with current releases are fascinating.