2005 Chablis Les Clos

The 2005 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru from Domaine François Raveneau offers a focused, shucked oyster-shell nose that is uncompromising and hardly aged given that it is now 17-years-old…or young. The palate is focused with a subtle marine, shucked oyster shell influence, lightly spiced with veins of white chocolate and grilled almond. To be honest, I found it impressive more than enjoyable at this stage, but maybe the larger format has hindered its development? I might have given this a three-hour decant.

The 2005 Chablis Grand Cru Clos is riper and more sun-kissed in profile than the 2008 and 2002 vintages that bracketed it, offering up a rich bouquet of apples, iodine and pastry cream that's framed by notes of smoky reduction. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with a textural attack, good depth and concentration, but without the lively, incisive acids and precise fruit tones that define the classic years. This is a powerful, brawny Les Clos but purists will want to gravitate toward the racier vintages.

Pale yellow. Ineffable nose combines fresh pineapple, grapefruit, crushed stone and menthol. Pure, taut, extremely backward wine that's like sucking on a mouthful of rocks today. Like a richer and even more austere version of the Montee de Tonnerre. With no obvious sweetness showing today, this is revealing more than it's showing. Finishes very long and very dry, with a purity of mineral expression that's rare for this vintage. Less likable today than the Valmur but even denser. This will require at least a decade of cellaring.