1992 Chablis Les Clos

The 1992 Chablis Grand Cru Clos is drinking superbly well, wafting from the glass with an initially exotic bouquet of mandarin, passionflower, beeswax and citrus blossom that's marked by a touch of botrytis but becomes more classical with aeration, segueing into scents of ripe citrus oil and botanicals reminiscent of a mature Sancerre from Edmond Vatan or François Cotat. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, layered and elegantly textural, with a broad attack, excellent concentration and depth at the open but vibrant core, concluding with a long, precise finish. This should maintain its plateau for another decade or more, but it is hard to resist today.