NV Guy Charlemagne Nature

A Guy Charlemagne NV Brut Nature originates entirely with Sezanne Chardonnay, though it’s not labeled “Blanc de Blancs.” And rather surprisingly, the difference in price with the corresponding, grand cru-rated “Reserve” from Mesnil and Oger represents a mere rounding error. But it’s either the case that this wine demonstrates how the Sezanne is underrated; or else, the corresponding “Reserve” – the bottling I tasted, anyway – isn’t as good as it should be given its illustrious village origins. Apricot, white currant, apple, and lemon inform a lusciously juicy palate that strikes ideal balances, on the one hand between supportive but not obvious residual sugar and bright acidity; and on the other between underlying richness and levity. Hints of white pepper, chalk dust, yeast, and apricot kernel add incisive interest and invigoration to a very satisfyingly sustained finish. This will, I suspect, show well for a couple of years. Philippe (son of Guy) Charlemagne farms 37 acres, principally in Le Mesnil and Oger, but with a substantial chunk in the Sezanne and a bit elsewhere in the Cote des Blancs. Most of the wines are raised in tank and most undergo malo-lactic conversion. I tasted only two of their cuvees this year, and only one from the Cote des Blancs. Importer: Charles Neal Selections (various importers), Richmond, CA; tel. (415) 225-5144

(70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir; no dosage; LBN11): Pale yellow. Zesty lime and orange pith scents are complicated by notes of jasmine and green tea. Tightly wound citrus and orchard fruits on the palate, with a chalky mineral element gaining power on the back half. Puts on weight with air and finishes stony and dry, with very good clarity and a late jolt of bitter quinine.

A Guy Charlemagne NV Brut Nature originates entirely with Sezanne Chardonnay, though it’s not labeled “Blanc de Blancs.” And rather surprisingly, the difference in price with the corresponding, grand cru-rated “Reserve” from Mesnil and Oger represents a mere rounding error. But it’s either the case that this wine demonstrates how the Sezanne is underrated; or else, the corresponding “Reserve” – the bottling I tasted, anyway – isn’t as good as it should be given its illustrious village origins. Apricot, white currant, apple, and lemon inform a lusciously juicy palate that strikes ideal balances, on the one hand between supportive but not obvious residual sugar and bright acidity; and on the other between underlying richness and levity. Hints of white pepper, chalk dust, yeast, and apricot kernel add incisive interest and invigoration to a very satisfyingly sustained finish. This will, I suspect, show well for a couple of years. Nov 2013, www.robertparker.com