2006 Volnay Clos des Chenes

An explosively-concentrated 2006 Volnay Clos Des Chenes mingles cherry, redcurrant, ginger, orange peel, iodine, and bitter-sweet herbal and cherry pit concentrate, projecting confidence in its role as the Lafarge flagship. A wealth of largely ineffable but prominently chalky and saline mineral nuances lends intrigue, while hints of marzipan and caramel sneak onto the back palate, enhancing the sense of ripeness to this wine's sappy fundament of fruit. It manages to be texturally plush while displaying fine-grained underlying tannic structure, and finishes with detonative dynamic of tumbling fruits and minerals, uniting both refreshing brightness and a persistent sense of richness. Here is one 2006 that will surely be worth following for 12-15 years. Frederic and Michel Lafarge are consistently adept in challenging vintages, and succeeded admirably in 2006, harvesting from September 20 until the end of that month. To hear them tell (as well as to taste the results) their fruit was largely healthy, and sorting was principally to remove under-ripe berries and clusters. Not surprisingly, they chalk this up to vine management. "Biodynamic treatments permit the vine to overcome the stress of weather extremes," such as characterized 2006, asserts Frederic Lafarge. Michel Lafarge points out that the same – to his mind ideal – 12.5-13+% potential alcohol was reached over the same period in premier cru and non-cru sites alike, a phenomenon due in part, he believes, to his estate's high average age of vine. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

Looks quite evolved. Something a little odd on the nose. Luscious fruit on the palate though. Then a very drying finish. Shame! (JR)

Pale ruby. Light but very true nose. Very vibrant autumn leaf flavoured fruit on the front palate and then still lots of tannin, but ripe tannin, on the finish. Not nearly ready. (JR)