1996 Volnay Clos des Chenes

Tasted at the Clos des Chênes vertical in London, the 1996 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes is one of the more successful wines of what turned out to be an unpredictable vintage. Now approaching two decades in age, it has come into its own with an exuberant bouquet: wild raspberry, scorched earth, red plum and cold limestone scents that all leap from the glass whilw maintaining their delineation. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and linear - "correct" you might say and yet with disarming focus and vigor. It segues into a masculine, tobacco finish that echoes the Médoc in a strange way, and one is left with the overall impression that this 1996 could benefit from further bottle age. What an excellent wine from Michel and Frédéric Lafarge. Tasted November 2015.

This is still quite deeply colored and even after 10 years of age, shows no softening around the edges. The nose is very richly fruited with still very fresh and primary aromas that are earthy and quite ripe, combining with unusually concentrated flavors (in the context of the vintage) and all wrapped in a dusty, intense and gorgeously detailed finish that delivers admirable length. This is a delicious yet altogether serious effort that packs ample power and punch and it will age effortlessly for another two decades, perhaps longer.