1999 Chateauneuf du Pape

Reminiscent of the 1995, the 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is tight, structured and backward, with high acidity and tannin. Showing notes of blackcurrants, black raspberry, truffle, damp earth and cedar, with medium to full-bodied richness and depth, it needs another 3-5 years to reach the early stages of maturity, at which point it will hold for another decade or more. (JD)

I was more than pleasantly surprised with the 1999 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape and it's drinking amazingly well. Sporting a dark red, opaque color as well as a big, rich nose of earthy blackberry fruit, mushroom, tar, and garrigue aromas, this has surprising density, ripeness and depth to the aromas. With air subtle roasted herb notes show up and while not terribly complex, it is not primary or simple. Medium bodied and balanced; this isn't a blockbuster and shows nice balance, ripe fruit and a clean, precise texture that leads into a medium length, enjoyable finish.

Full ruby. Highly complex nose combines black fruits, gibier, truffle, road tar, licorice and leather. Very intense and spicy, but still tightly wound, with a firm acid spine keeping the flavors under wraps. "Very interior wine today," notes Perrin. But one already senses the incipient complexity. Finishes with building tannins, a note of caramel and terrific persistence. This will need time. (ST) 92+