2011 Chryseia

Very vibrant crimson. With blackish hints. Cool start – more restrained than many other Douro 2011s. Served alongside smart bordeaux 2011s it will look good but in the context of Douro 2011s it looks a little subdued and Médocain! Very dry finish. I suspect the answers lie in the winemaking. (JR)

The 2011 Chryseia is a 65-35 blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, all aged for 14 months in new French oak and listed at 14.5% alcohol. This is perhaps not quite as deep as some of the bigger vintages of recent years (2007, 2009), but it also perhaps has more mid-palate elegance than either, plus a fresh feel. After an overly understated and somewhat concerning opening, I was gratified to see this wine evolve brilliantly, filling out in the glass and expanding with aeration, eventually showing more volume and concentration than it seemed initially to have. It showed its finesse and class the next day, seeming still young and unevolved, but caressing in texture, surprisingly solid and quite lovely. It was better still after a couple of hours of air on Day 2. On Day 1, the finish was sometimes a bit harsh. On Day 2, everything was in better balance. This just needs some time to settle down. In a sort of David-and-Goliath vibe, I think there are some who would rather not admit it, but Chryseia is a significant and consistent performer in the Douro if you review the last several vintages (the 2010 was declassified). Recent vintages vary significantly in style – being appropriately true to what nature gave – but they all offer quality. I suspect that this 2011 may yet have secrets left to tell as it develops in the cellar. Let’s be a bit conservative at the moment. It may yet be entitled to an uptick. There were 2,400 cases produced. Drink 2015-2025. Importer: Premium Port Wines, San Francisco, CA.; tel. (415) 554-9920