2010 Beaune Clos des Ursules

The 2010 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules exudes breeding on the nose with elegance to spare. The palate is well-balanced with an insistent grip on the entry. There is impressive structure here, a Clos des Ursules with volume and presence, while maintaining fine focus on the taut finish. Pure class. Drink 2014-2028. This was the first time I had been back to Louis Jadot’s expansive winery on the northern outskirts of Beaune since their memorable 150th anniversary tasting back in 2008. As I quipped in the previous issue, Jacques Lardiere was then talking about his imminent retirement that seemed to never come. But on this occasion, there was new winemaker Frederic Barnier there to greet me. He has large shoes to fill but he seems up to the task of steering this important Burgundy name to a new chapter, having worked alongside Jacques for a couple of years. “At the beginning, we were not so confident about the whites,” he explained in reference to his 2011s, “but it has been a nice surprise. The dry spring of 2011 affected the level of ripeness but it has lent freshness, but with low acidity.” We did not have time to taste the entire portfolio of over 80 crus, but instead took a sample of 20 white and reds from both the 2010 and 2011 vintages. Importer: Kobrand, Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7700

Moderately saturated medium red. Began with brooding, medicinal scents of cherry, menthol, licorice and tarragon, then took on an exhilarating high note of orange peel with air. Initially savory and soil-driven, with a pliant, chewy texture but more salty minerality than fresh fruit. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins. As the wine opened in the glass it showed more verve and spice character, suaver tannins and captivating building sweetness. I'd give it at least five or six years in the cellar to sort itself out.

The 2010 Beaune Clos des Ursules is dark, rich and gorgeous. Black cherries, plums and spices take shape beautifully in the glass, while the wine's structure appears later. The balance of fruit, structure and acidity is so seamless that nothing really stands out here. The Ursules needs a few years in bottle to come together, but it is shaping up to be a gem. The Clos des Ursules shut down fairly quickly in the glass, suggesting it may be a number of years before the wine becomes truly expressive.