2000 Leoville Las Cases

The 2000 Léoville Las Cases takes time to unwind in the decanter and glass, but when it begins to show all its cards, the display is spectacular. Mingling aromas of dark berries and red fruits with aromas of pencil shavings, loamy soil, cedar box, bitter chocolate, dried rose petals and licorice, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered, complete mid-palate that's rare in this vintage, powdery tannins and a long, resonant finish. An uncompromising classic, even as it closes in on its 22nd birthday, the 2000 Las Cases remains an infant in terms of evolution.

The 2003 Léoville Las-Cases, a year when they green harvested, has an enticing bouquet with red fruit, orange rind, tobacco and loamy scents, gaining confidence with aeration (decanting really benefits this wine). The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite strict for a 2003, but with adequate freshness and a grippy, cigar box-infused and persistent finish. This is an impressive showing, and at 20 years, it will give another 20 years of drinking pleasure, unlike many of its peers. (NM)

One of the successes of the vintage, the 2003 Léoville Las Cases becomes more and more reminiscent of the 1982 as it ages. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cassis, pencil shavings, petroleum jelly and vanilla pod, it's medium to full-bodied, with a broad, fleshy profile and a concentrated core of fruit framed by ripe, velvety tannins. It's undeniably high pH in profile, but not to excess. (WK)