1982 Belair

For over a decade I have questioned which is the better vintage of Belair, the forward soft yet powerful 1983 or the more structured, exotic 1982. I am still not sure. Certainly the 1982 has emerged from its "ugly duckling" stage and is beginning to reveal some mushroomy, leathery notes intermingled with scents of sweet black fruits, herbs, and minerals. The complex nose is followed by a wine with very good concentration. Although noticeably hard tannin is still in evidence, this is a nicely extracted, traditionally made St.-Emilion. The 1982 rivals the 1993 and 1983 Belairs, the two other top wines made at this estate over the last 15 years. The 1982 possesses 10-15 more years of aging potential . Tasted 4 times after bottling with inconsistent tasting notes.

Medium red. Roasted redcurrant and tobacco on the rather autumnal nose, plus a vaguely weedy element. Cool and dry-edged in the mouth; ultimately hollow.