2011 Cornas Renaissance

Bright purple. Smoke-accented scents of cherry, blackberry and floral pastilles are complicated by a hint of black cardamom. Juicy and smooth, with intense red and dark berry flavors and a touch of spicecake on the back end. Comes across as elegant and lithe, and finishes with strong thrust and gentle, harmonious tannins.

As with the 2012, the 2011 Cornas Renaissance (22 months in foudre) is more approachable than the straight Cornas. Inky purple in color, it exhibits gorgeous black raspberry, cassis, ground herbs, spring flowers and underbrush to go with a rich, full-bodied, voluptuously textured profile on the palate. Still packing a wallop of tannin that emerges on the finish, it will benefit from a year or two in the cellar and cruise for 10-15 years. Another reference point in Cornas, the Domaine of Auguste Clape, which is now run by Auguste’s talented son, Pierre-Marie (who started working at the domaine in 1989), is staunchly traditional in style, and the wines see no new oak, no destemming and aging all in ancient foudre. He produces two cuvees from Cornas, his Renaissance, which comes from the estate’s younger vines (50 years in age), and the top wine, which is labeled simply Cornas. Both are textbook examples of the appellation, with the Renaissance being more approachable early on. In addition, he releases a Saint Peray (Marsanne), and a Vin de France and Cotes du Rhone, both of which comes from vines near Cornas and are well worth seeking out. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Tasted from three crusty old foudres, not that there's any other type here: #1, from Tezier and Patou: Intensely floral and precise, with sappy red fruit character and strong minerality. #2, from Reynard: Dark berries and cherry on the nose and palate. A bright core of minerality gives lift and cut. Shows a slight tannic bite on the back end but sweetness carries through the finish. This site got some good warmth in 2011, according to Olivier. #3, from La Cote, but a part that Olivier calls "La Petite Cote": Blackberry and cherry-cola on the nose. Lush and expansive but with energetic dark fruit flavors. Spicier on the finish, which shows very good clarity and cut.