2006 Pommard Les Rugiens

High-toned kirsch, almond, pistachio extract, and floral and herb distillate in the nose convey added dimensions to Coursel's 2006 Pommard Rugiens, which also boasts the greatest textural refinement of its collection, with density and abundant tannin allied to glyceral richness, primarily sappiness of resin and black fruits, as well as a sense of lift and energy that carry into a long, palate-staining finish. Deep toasted nut, roasted meat, as well as wafting persistence of high-toned floral essences add allure, but no one should underestimate the sheer abundance of tannin here, either. This looks set to be worth following for a decade, but how refined its personality will remain is surely anyone's guess. Predictably, Yves Confuron picked very late (until October 12), and although malos were for the most part timely, the wines stayed in barrel through two springs, to be bottled at 20-22 months (depending on site), since which I have not tasted them. Confuron also stuck by his allegiance to long fermentation with whole clusters and stems, although he backed off slightly in both respects – as well as in pigeage – vis-a-vis 2005. By the time rot and imperfections were eliminated from the crop, it was meager even in comparison with the estate's long-term average. Confuron had an interesting and unique take on the vintage, associating its fruit with 2002 but the youthful austerity of 2001. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400