1998 Barolo Vecchie Vite dei Capalot e Brunate Riserva
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Voerzio's 1998 Barolo Riserva Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate (magnum) is powerful and dramatic in its sweeping expression of dark fruit, menthol and grilled herbs. Balsamic notes that are typical of this bottling add complexity on the close. Still, there is something about the tannins that isn't quite as polished as it usually is.
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Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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The 1998 Barolo Riserva Capalot e Brunate suggests that even tiny crops can only accomplish so much with certain vineyards – Capalot is in an area of lightish Nebbiolo and it shows. The wine, nonetheless, with a pleasurable mint, caramel, and tar nose, has a certain length and solidity, but its slightly hard tannins indicate that more flesh is necessary to round it out. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2014. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
Impressively saturated ruby color, among the darkest nebbiolo bottlings I saw in the Piedmont in September. Brilliant, primary aromas of cassis and black raspberry. Amazingly dense and sweet in the mouth, with sappy flavors of black raspberry and spices. Like a solid, but sound acidity gives the flavors shape and grip. Finishes with extraordinary persistence and big, harmonious tannins. This and the Sarmassa were highest in polyphenols in '98, says Voerzio.