1998 l'Eglise Clinet
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This is the most sublime example of the 1998 l’Eglise-Clinet of many that I have tasted. The 1998 is a Pomerol that, after 23-years, has reached its zenith. It has a simply gorgeous bouquet of ebullient red fruit, black truffle, cedar and pressed rose petals, with exquisite delineation and harmony. That, follows through on the palate that has a fine bead of acidity, perfect balance, brilliant poise and ethereal purity. Whereas previous bottles have been tight and required longer cellaring, this indicates that Denis Durantou’s brilliant Pomerol is reaching its drinking plateau. Tasted at the Amos Bursary charity dinner at 67 Pall Mall.
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I was lucky to track this down at the very last minute before it was needed for a tasting (from a wine shop in St Emilion) because bottles of this vintage are now like gold dust. It is in the perfect drinking window, and is just a wonderful example of a year that was particularly kind to the best Pomerol estates. Full-on black truffles and smoked earth, fragrant cigar box and turmeric spices, atumnal brambled fruits and melted tannins that are finely-honed yet still muscular, showcasing the tightrope that L'Eglise Clinet so often manages to walk. Winemaker Denis Durantou in full brilliant flow.
The 1998 l’Eglise-Clinet was picked 21 to 26 September. This formed my introduction to the property and I still remember the impact of tasting this vintage from barrel. Durantou opened three bottles as the first two showed a little TCA. It has a wonderful bouquet that is fragrant and pure: redcurrant, cranberry, a touch of kirsch, hints of marmalade and orange rind. It captures Pomerol at its most opulent without excess. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, dense black fruit laced with truffle with a very complex, mineral-driven, truffle and morels infused finish that lingers long in the mouth. Tasted at the l’Eglise-Clinet vertical at the château in April 2018.
About the producer
Ch. l'Eglise-Clinet is one of the most unassuming wine estates in Bordeaux. You'd probably drive past it if you didn't have prior knowledge of its vinous output. There's no ostentatious gateway nor sweeping gravel drive.