1994 Rioja Reserva Especial

Following the tasting of current vintages, I tasted through some older bottles with the Muga family. First up, the 1994 Seleccion Especial has a lovely, melted, eucalyptus-tinged bouquet with touches of dried fig and dusky blackberry. The palate is finely balanced with a touch of orange zest on the entry. It has fine tannins, with secondary tertiary/mushroom notes beginning to develop towards the cedary, almost Bordeaux-like finish. It still has several years ahead. Drink now-2020. Bodegas Muga was a must during my afternoon visiting the triumvirate of classic Rioja producers located within spitting distance from each other in Haro. The name should need no introduction. It was founded by Aurora Cano and her husband Isaac in 1932, although the family were growers and did not commence winemaking themselves until the 1960s, when they relocated to the building in Barrio de la Estacion. Under Aurora’s son, Isaac Jnr, who joined us for the tasting, Muga fostered a reputation for high quality, classic Rioja wine sourced from an almost incalculable number of tiny parcels. During the 1990s they branched out to pursue what you might call “modern” Rioja with the inception of “Torre Muga” in 1991. This move may have piqued those that feared Muga was forsaking their classical roots, though those fears were unfounded and the bodega continues to fashion wines that embrace both styles. However, let us commence with their sparkling contribution to the Rioja landscape. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767