2006 Tiara Branco

The 2006 TIARA is a lovely performance in a poor vintage and as such it is another tribute to Niepoort's skill as a white wine producer and more luster on his already shiny reputation. Retasted only in the USA, this library wine, which I wrongly feared would not age well, shows that it is in fine form. Niepoort had a terrific off-vintage white performance in general in 2006. This has become more expressive and has improved considerably since I first saw it early on. It does show mature nuances now, but no decay. The nuances of minerality mix with the original steely demeanor. It no longer seems as austere and it has opened beautifully, retaining its fine acidity and finish. I doubt it will improve further, but it should hold gracefully for a few more years. After that, we'll see when we get there. Drink now-2014. Niepoort's output, largely from old vines and high altitude, always has a certain refinement and elegance in common, even in the biggest vintages. It is an interesting aspect of this warm weather wine region. In 2009, a big vintage for most of the rest of the region, the reds seem generally restrained and quite crisp, a little eccentric compared to the typical Douro output in this year. Normally, I feel Niepoort does extremely well in the bigger vintages. This year, I am less sure. Importers: Martine's Wines, Inc., Novato, CA.; tel: (415) 883-0400; except in New York/New Jersey: Eric Solomon, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565.