2005 Pichon Baron

The 2005 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron is brilliant and is drinking spectacularly well today, with notes of ripe currants, smoked tobacco, crushed stone, and that utterly classic, freshly sharpened pencil Pauillac characteristics that's so hard to find from anywhere else. Ripe, full-bodied, expansive, and seamless, this sexy, opulent, incredibly seductive 2005 will continue to drink well for another 30-40 years if well stored.

64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc. Aged 15 months in oak barrels (80% new). Garnet with brick at the rim. Lovely depth of fruit on the nose – luscious and full. Smoke and cedar as it opens. Round and gourmand on attack with a touch of sweetness but still very fresh. Tannins solid and firm but wrapped in generous fruit. Long, persistent finish. A lot going on. (JL)

A fine tannic frame, blackberry and cassis fruits, hints of cigar, rosebud and tobacco leaf. You will be able to find more generous examples of the 2005 vintage in Pauillac appellation right now, as there remains some austerity to the tannins through the mid palate, but this is a vintage that has proved stubborn over the past 15 years, and is only just starting to come into its own - I would suggest giving this another few years and then checking back in. 80% new oak. Watch out for bottle variation - a second bottle we opened showed more nuance and generosity. Jean-Rene Matignon technical director.