2008 Barolo San Stefano Perno
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Tasting notes
Pale ruby. Round and transparent with great finesse. This was served next to a very respectable 2008 red burgundy. Barolo 1, Burgundy 0! Vibrato and with quite enough subtle fruit even though there’s a hint of dustiness. Very long and throbbing. So clean on the finish! The most appetising sort of tar. (JR)
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Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Healthy dark red. More expressive on the nose than the 2009 version, offering black raspberry, strawberry, menthol and mocha plus a slightly rustic suggestion of old barrel. Then rich, creamy and ripe in the mouth, with lovely balance and shape to the red berry flavors. Little sign of the wildness shown by the nose. Finishes with seamless, nicely integrated tannins and very good length.
The 2008 Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno boasts a serious core of fruit, acidity and pure minerality. A sweet floral bouquet melds into expressive red berries in this firm, tightly wound wine. The Santo Stefano has clamped down significantly post-bottling. It will be interesting to see how long it takes for the wine to open up, but it was unquestionably more flattering from cask.
The 2008 Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno boasts a serious core of fruit, acidity and pure minerality. A sweet floral bouquet melds into expressive red berries in this firm, tightly wound wine. The Santo Stefano has clamped down significantly post-bottling. It will be interesting to see how long it takes for the wine to open up, but it was unquestionably more flattering from cask. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033. Mauro Mascarello’s 2008 Baroli have closed down considerably since I tasted them from cask in November, 2011. The 2008s were just bottled a few months ago. I expect they will be more expressive in another 6-12 months. Overall, the 2008s are mid-weight wines built on grace and perfume. I don’t see the pure power of 2006 nor the opulence of 2007, to name two recent vintages, but wines that are built more along the lines of 2005. I expect the 2008s will age on their acidity rather than fruit, but these wines always have a way of transforming in bottle, so we will see. There is little doubt Nebbiolo did better here than Barbera in 2008, as was true throughout Piemonte. The 2008 Barberas are good, but average, or perhaps slightly better than that within the context of the estate’s long, established history. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484