2011 Meursault Charmes

(four barrels produced in 2011, from vines at the top and bottom of the appellation; 50% new oak): Ripe peach, apple, orange zest and resiny oak on the nose. Bright and classically dry, with harmonious ripe acidity and lovely mineral zest giving shape to the peach oil and spice flavors. Nothing heavy about this very youthful wine. At this point in our tasting, Saouma noted that the 2011s were evolving more slowly in the barrel than the 2010s did.

Bright beams of minerality run through the 2011 Meursault Charmes. This is without question one of the more focused, structured and tight Charmes of the year. The 2011 boasts remarkable polish in its flavors and texture. A rich, insistent finish rounds things out nicely. There is plenty of potential here, but readers are going to have to be patient.

The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes has a divine honeysuckle and slightly leesy bouquet that is extremely well-defined and animated. The palate is crisp and lively on the entry, with generous pineapple and red apple notes. There is good weight here and a vibrant walnut-tinged finish that is long and tender. This is a Charmes that lives up to its name! Drink 2016-2026. ||Prior to launching into Maison Lucien de Moine’s 2012 reds with irrepressible winemaker Mounir Saouma, we revisited some of his 2011s that are now in bottle. To recap, Mounir is one of the last Burgundy producers to bottle his wines, since he is a great believer in extended elevage. There is a clutch of outstanding wines in this vintage, particularly at the grand cru level, where one must admire the consistency across the board. As always, readers are reminded that Lucien Le Moine’s wines are made in a stringently reductive method, therefore they always need more decanting time than other growers. eRobertParker.com.April, 2014