2007 Meursault Charmes

(Morey makes this wine from four parcels, including some 70-year-old vines in what he describes as the dead center of the cru) Good bright yellow. Suave, classy nose combines candied lemon peel, crushed stone, spices and flowers. Ripe, concentrated and fat with fruit, but kept fresh by lovely floral lift; some vanillin oak adds interest. Still a bit angular on the back end, but the flavors really resound on the aftertaste. Morey assembles his various components just before the bottling.

Hazy appearance. Lemon, lime and a leesy element on the nose. A step up in intensity over the Boucheres, with good richness and a touch of sweetness. This will be silky for 2007. Following a very long alcoholic fermentation, this has about two grams of residual sugar.

Morey Blanc’s 2007 Meursault Charmes offers an alternation of honey, nut paste, and peach with fresh lemon, salt, and crushed stone. This combines richness with real grip, no doubt in part reflecting a significant portion (though not this year the sole source) in vines that were planted before the Second World War. A smoky, spicy aura reminds one of the presence of oak, but is subtly integrated and entirely at home. This should have at least 6-8 year potential. Dec 2009, www.robertparker.com