NV Bollinger Special Cuvee

Bready and appley – upholds every tradition of champagne, including a good level of dosage that gives honeyed ripeness to the finish. Long, sweetly spiced finish, with yeastiness making it like a cinnamon bun. Delicious! (RH)

The NV Champagne Special Cuvée (60% Pinot Noir and based on the 2021 harvest) pours a bright yellow/silver hue on opening and reveals a fresh and actually more mineral-driven profile on the nose than I was expecting, revealing layers of fresh raspberries, brioche, wet stone, and orange blossoms. The palate is medium to full-bodied and classically rounded, as you would come to expect from this house, but it retains good tension and a silky, chalky texture, with an ultra-fine mousse, salinity in its notes of grapefruit zest and almond, and a creamy texture through the finish. It’s very well-styled and is going to drink well over the next 10 years. They always try to have 8-10 vintages the blend, the oldest being 18 years (15 years when it goes into the bottle). 8 grams per liter dosage. For a long time, Bollinger only allowed private visits, but they plan to open a visiting center in 2027 in the center of Ay and are also going to increase production from their current 4000 barrels to 5500. In addition, they’re going to start adding information to the label of their Special Cuvée.

The latest in Bollinger's hugely successful series of all-Pinot champagnes based on a single village , Verzenay in this case, together with wines from other villages including Aÿ, Avenay, Louvois, Mutigny and Tauxières. The principal vintage is 2019 but there are also reserve wines back to 2009. Dosage 6 g/l and released in the UK in mid June 2024. This, the fifth edition in the series, seemed a little richer than some previous blends and at first I wondered whether there was sufficient acidity but Bollinger's (and burgundy's) characteristic savour insinuated itself on the finish after a few minutes. It's too young to have taken on any mushroom notes but is a worthy addition to the series and I suspect it will develop into something even more interesting. It's already chock full of personality. (JR)