2003 Barolo Monprivato

Mascarello's 2003 Barolo Monprivato blossoms beautifully in the glass with gorgeous volume, polished tannins and lovely overall balance. Red cherries, plums, spices, tobacco and crushed flowers all open up in an effortless Monprivato with plenty of near-term appeal. Here, too, the heat of the vintage is evident, but it is the structure that gives the wine its sense of proportion.

NB vintage. This cru is one of the best 10 vineyards in the entire zone. He uses extremely big botte. Much lighter than the 2004s with quite a brickish rim. (He still has some of the Rose clone of Nebbiolo, which explains the light colour.) Franco Ziliani says most 2003s are developing much faster than this – but this seems gorgeous already to me. Light, rather floral, rosy nose, rather winning! Very rich start – lovely and utterly flattering. The tannins are very nicely covered. Lots of lively, heel-kicking fruit. Hint of chestnuts on the finish but the traditional ways of Mascarello are not difficult to love in this example. Quite different from the 2004s but a really lovely wine. (JR)

(bottled in August) Medium red. Quite closed on the nose a month after the bottling, hinting at strawberry, mocha and musky underbrush. Then big, rich and expansive in the mouth, with a distinctly fatter texture than the 2004 if less complexity. A broad, dry wine that's huge for a Barolo from this address. Intriguing fungal nuance. Finishes with a perfumed character, but ultimately less high-pitched than usual for this superb bottling, with a narrower range of aromas.