2009 Barolo Mosconi

New to the Chiara Boschis stable. Single vineyard Mosconi from Monforte d'Alba, 400 m. Clay. 10 days later than Cannubi. 50-year-old vines. Big and almost brûlée. Rich and structured. Firm and very drying on the finish. Long peacock’s tail. (JR)

Following the recent purchase of land in the Mosconi cru (in Monforte d’Alba), Chiara has now released the 2009 Barolo Mosconi. This is her first vintage. You can feel some of the heat of the vintage on the bouquet, with distant whiffs of ripe strawberry and raspberry. There is also a flinty mineral component that balances out the super ripe fruit. I look forward to seeing what this vineyard is capable of in the future, but the 2009 edition is clearly made for near-term drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2017. Chiara Boschis is one of the protagonists of an exciting all-female group of producers in Barolo. She purchased E. Pira & Figli in 1981 from an old winemaking family that, sadly, finished its genetic line with no heirs after the death of its last male member. Chiara says she never wanted to change the winery’s name. Instead, she added her own in parentheses. All of her wines are simply stunning. Importer: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale, FL; tel. (954) 530-4021

The south-facing Mosconi vineyard is known for making open, fruit-driven wines, and that is exactly the style here. Dark plums, espresso, licorice, cherries, menthol, tar and smoke are some of the many nuances that emerge as this forward, juicy Barolo shows off its considerable personality. The balance of fruit, acidity and tannin is simply masterful. Boschis used only 30% new barrels, but the oak still needs a few years to fully assimilate. The Mosconi now challenges the Cannubi as the most supple and approachable Barolo in the Pira range. Another few years of cellaring seems advisable as 2009 has firmed up a bit over the last few months. At times, the Mosconi comes across as a hypothetical blend of Cannubi and Via Nuova.