2012 Brunnenhauschen Riesling Grosses Gewachs

I feel that the Brunnenhäuschen is the great mineral contender in the stable of Wittmann’s Grosse Gewächse. If it seems more closed at this youthful stage than its siblings, this may actually be an illusion, as it probably has the same abundance of fruit, but more reined in by a compact and cool wet-stone minerality. Refreshing acidity adds to a perception of mountainstream freshness and great clarity of expression. My drink-by date is a cautious one, younger enthusiasts can keep it longer. (MS)