2002 Grand Mayne

Like many 2002s, this offering reveals an angular quality with more astringent tannin as well as ample vegetal/herbal characteristics. While it exhibits some attractive, sweet, cool climate, red cherry and currant fruit, it does not demonstrate the potential I detected from barrel. It appears to have gone into a dormant stage that should put tasters on guard for potential evolutionary problems given the wine’s high tannin and herbal personality. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2012.

If Franc-Mayne is quite a typical wine, its neighbour has made a very singular wine in 2002 with, despite all the problems of underripeness, an alcohol level of 14.5 per cent. I was informed that this is not due to either especially low yields or late picking but to ‘thick skins’, which seems a rather strange explanation to me. Deep, lively crimson, rather animal nose with a slight lack of freshness. Simple, sweet and formless – those thick skins don’t seem to have done much to boost tannin levels. High alcohol is the dominant feature. I noted a strange pineapple note on the wine en primeur but gave it 16.5 points. (JR)

Deep, healthy crimson. Very appetising on the nose – ripeness with savour. A healthy drink with convincing ripe fruit on the front palate and a kick of tannic bite (but not painful tannins) on the finish. Slightly strange pineapple note but an attractive package. (JR)