1998 Grand Mayne
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The 1998 Grand Mayne might represent the best bottle I have encountered. Now at 27 years of age, the 1998 has mellowed on the nose like many Right Bank wines from this vintage. Red plum, cranberry and hints of cinnamon unfold on the nose, which has dispensed with the precocity it showed in its youth. The palate is beautifully balanced with just the right amount of acidity to keep it on its toes, still edging towards Pomerol near the finish with hints of black truffle and tobacco. This Grand Mayne is à point , though it will certainly give another decade of drinking pleasure.
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The 1998 Grand Mayne was “the vintage of Jean-Pierre Nony’s life” according to his son. Cropped at 36hl/ha, it has a far superior bouquet compared to the 1996 with red berries, fresh mint, pressed rose petals and curry powder. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, impressive depth and a fine bead of acidity. A splash of soy lives things up and it fans out with style towards the Pomerol-like finish. This has always been a benchmark Grand Mayne and it is living up to expectations. Tasted at the Grand Mayne vertical at the property.
The finest Grand Mayne to date, this is a wine of majestic weight, richness, and volume. The most concentrated and powerful Grand Mayne yet produced, its saturated purple color is accompanied by a phenomenal nose of licorice, smoke, graphite, and blackberry/cassis aromas (reminiscent of dry vintage port). This huge, massive effort is low in acidity, highly extracted, with an unctuous texture, gobs of glycerin, and a multidimensional, chewy, long finish. A dazzling wine, it is undoubtedly a sleeper of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: Now-2020. Last tasted, 1/03.
About the producer
The Nony family has been at the helm of this 17-hectare estate for three generations, since the 1930s, but it’s under Jean-Antoine – in charge since 2015 – that quality here has soared.