2009 Barbaresco Asili

Giacosa’s 2009 Barbaresco Asili is harmonious and has good mid-palate depth, but is completely devoid of character, depth or complexity, all surprising given Bruno Giacosa’s absolute adoration for this site. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Bruno Giacosa fans will be thrilled to learn of the return of long-time winemaker Dante Scaglione to this historic property. Scaglione spent 16 years alongside Giacosa and is now back with the winery as a consultant, which bodes well for the future. The first vintage Scaglione oversaw in his new role is 2011. Until then, readers will have to accept the fact that the current releases aren’t up to Giacosa’s historical standards. Few, if any, Piemonte producers are more heavily represented in my cellar than Bruno Giacosa. I still own a few bottles of the mythical 1964 Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva, which remains one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. Count me among those who hope this iconic winery can quickly return to the level of their glory days. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700

(white label): Medium red. High-pitched, rather cool aromas of cherry, raspberry, white tobacco, medicinal herbs, minerals and menthol. Then Quite dry and backward on the palate, with mint and herb flavor dominating. Almost Barolo-like in its medicinal character. Very young and backward Asili, displaying terrific fruit through the retronasal passage.

Giacosa’s 2009 Barbaresco Asili is harmonious and has good mid-palate depth, but is completely devoid of character, depth or complexity, all surprising given Bruno Giacosa’s absolute adoration for this site. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. ||Bruno Giacosa fans will be thrilled to learn of the return of long-time winemaker Dante Scaglione to this historic property. Scaglione spent 16 years alongside Giacosa and is now back with the winery as a consultant, which bodes well for the future. The first vintage Scaglione oversaw in his new role is 2011. Until then, readers will have to accept the fact that the current releases aren’t up to Giacosa’s historical standards. Few, if any, Piemonte producers are more heavily represented in my cellar than Bruno Giacosa. I still own a few bottles of the mythical 1964 Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva, which remains one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. Count me among those who hope this iconic winery can quickly return to the level of their glory days. Wine Advocate.October, 2012