2003 Meursault Clos de la Barre

Reticent nose hints at peach and hazelnut. Then juicy and firm in the mouth, with a completely different shape than the Desiree. This shows more citrus cut and structure. Lafon says that on paper it possesses the best acid balance of his 2003s.

I adored the aromatics of the 2003 Meursault Clos de la Barre (white), which soar from the glass with white pepper, spices, lilies, and butter. Harmonious, light to medium-bodied, thick, and toasty, this wine offers a flavor profile composed of candied pears, spiced apples, and honeyed minerals. Projected maturity: now-2012. Importers: Daniel Johnnes/Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 625-2505, Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; and Beaune Imports, Berkeley Ca; tel. (510) 841-9815

Musky aromas of peach and ginger. Less rich and dense in the middle than the regular village sample, and slightly dry on the back. From a second barrel: Perfumed, subtle and pure on the nose, with aromas of peach and mirabelle Richer and more glyceral than the first barrel, but with rather gewurztraminer-like flavors of orange peel, licorice and spice. Finishes with very good length.