1995 Messorio

The 1995 Messorio is quite a bit more youthful than the 1994. It shows terrific purity in its dark fruit, with a bouquet that is only now beginning to move into the tertiary stage. Sweet, ripe tannins frame the fruit beautifully all the way through to the intense, perfumed finish. The wine needs time in the glass for all of the elements to meld together, but over time the 1995 makes a strong challenge to the 1994, if not surpassing it in some ways. This is another stunning, emotionally moving wine from Le Macchiole. Here, too, total production was just two barrels.

This is a brilliant effort, rivaling the finest made not only in Italy, but also in France and the United States. Quantities are very limited for the Merlot from the Messorio vineyard. Approximately 40-50 cases will be available, but production is expected to increase slightly in future vintages. The purpose of writing about it is so Wine Advocate subscribers can get a head start as this will certainly become one of the great new wines of Italy. The 1995 Merlot Messorio smells akin to a sensational vintage of the ostentatious Pomerol, Le Pin. Knock-out aromas of new oak intermixed with jammy black cherry fruit, coconut, Allspice and licorice tumble out of the glass with little restraint. The wine is dense, with spectacular concentration and purity, a plush texture, and thrilling levels of glycerin, extract, and richness. Everything is velvety-textured in this flashy wine, which can be drunk now or cellared for 10-15 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620