This year sees the release of the 20th vintage of Cheval des Andes – Cheval Blanc’s operation in Mendoza. Since the team from the legendary Saint-Emilion estate embarked on the venture with Terrazas de los Andes, 25 years ago, much has changed – and this is the start of a new era for the property. What was once a working concept has taken root.  “This is the beginning of our adult life,” says Technical Director Pierre-Olivier Clouet. “We have a real identity today.” It’s taken a quarter-century for the property to shake off the uncertainty of youth and find firm footing – something that hasn’t necessarily been easy.  “We made mistakes,” Clouet confesses. Not having a historic reputation to rely on, the team at Cheval des Andes had sought out high scores, chasing points to prove their worth. But, in a still Parker-dominant era, that meant making wines with “ripe grapes, a lot of extraction, a high level of alcohol – you [had] to show the muscle to explain that you are a great wine”, explains Clouet. “For a long time, the recipe was in the cellar; nobody cared where the vines were.” Now, however, that’s all changed.  From 2011, the team started shifting focus to the vineyard, working more closely with their French counterparts and vice-versa. The arrival of Lorenzo Pasquini (now the man at the helm of Ch. d’Yquem) in 2015 was key to the transition, as Cheval des Andes started to focus on a shared vision of fine wine – one that is about freshness, balance and ageing potential, and one that defines Cheval Blanc.  Only with a few wrong turns, however, can you be sure you’re on the right path – and Clouet is clear that those first 16 years, figuring out what Cheval des Andes should and could be, has been “super important” in helping them build “something with real sincerity, real authenticity”. Most importantly, Cheval des Andes is not intended to be, nor is a copy of Cheval Blanc: “It is, in our mind, absolutely an Argentine wine,” says Clouet.  The original 31-hectare vineyard is in Las Compuertas in Luján de Cuyo, a subregion of Mendoza. It is on these clay-dominant soils at around 1,000 metres’ altitude that Pierre Lurton discovered a plot of ungrafted Malbec in 1998. Planted in 1929, the vine material pre-dates phylloxera, descended from a selection imported to Argentina in 1852 – back when the grape dominated Bordeaux. This selection is key to the DNA of Cheval des Andes and, along with the huge diurnal shift, produces Malbec that is fresh, precise, perfumed and delicately structured. For Clouet, the “true” Malbec is closer to Pinot Noir in style – more floral than fruit-led, vibrant and even ethereal.  In 2001, the team purchased an additional parcel in La Consulta in the Uco Valley, at higher altitude and with more gravel-driven soils, a cooler site that has an even more significant diurnal swing in temperature. While they once might have used only a fraction of the estate to produce the flagship wine, they have moved to using as much as they can – to create a pure expression of the entire property, declassifying only plots that don’t fit in the blend or meet their stringent quality standards.  All 50 hectares are farmed with the same philosophy as their vines in Saint-Emilion – employing extensive cover crops, trees scattered throughout the vineyard, and with the same incredible attention to detail and focus on sustainability. “We work with the same vision and the same conviction,” says Clouet. One key difference, of course, is that irrigation is essential in this part of Argentina – but, here again, they’ve changed tack over the last decade or so. Rather than traditional modern drip irrigation where necessary water would be eked out drop by drop over the season as needed (“too artificial”, Clouet tells me), they irrigate extensively over the winter to ensure the soils are replenished fully between seasons (as well as help protect ungrafted vines against phylloxera), then – on a plot by plot basis – when the vines are starting to suffer, they give the vines around 40mm of water (still via drip irrigation), over 24-48 hours, replicating a day or two of steady rainfall.  They’ve reduced the height of the canopy (the engine of the vine for sugar production), while using trees, cover crops and minimal leaf-pulling to avoid sunburn. They’ve started pruning each vine according to its vigour, and are now picking significantly earlier – as much as two months earlier than 15 years ago. With this detail in the vineyard, the challenge is simply to guide the fruit through the winery: “No mistakes is enough in the cellar,” says Clouet.  In some ways, the wine echoes Cheval Blanc. While the Saint-Emilion property blends Cabernet Franc and Merlot, Cheval des Andes focuses on Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon – the Malbec bringing freshness and silkiness that complements the backbone of powerful Cabernet. And the Cheval Blanc style, one of restraint and precision, shines through in recent vintages of the wine – and especially the soon-to-be-released 2021. As Clouet tells me, “Our vision is absolutely delicacy, freshness, balance, ageing potential, complexity.” Unlike Cheval Blanc, however, which needs 10 years in bottle to start even hinting at its potential, Cheval des Andes offers an immediacy – something that Clouet is clear doesn’t inhibit its ability to last; the 2021, for example, can be drunk now, but will evolve over the next 25 years at least, he tells me.  Even the association with the Cheval Blanc name doesn’t make Cheval des Andes an easy sell to fine wine lovers; but that, says Clouet, is part of what makes it fun – a challenge for the team to be pushed. Even better, his team gets the chance to learn and make wine not just once a year, but twice, as well as gaining additional insight on how Cheval Blanc might adapt to climate change. But Cheval des Andes isn’t just an intellectual exercise (that is merely an added bonus), Clouet firmly believes in the potential of this site – something they’re now finally beginning to realise. Browse all current Cheval des Andes listings or read more Editorial 

For 25 years, Cheval Blanc – one of Saint-Emilion’s leading names – has been crafting wine in Argentina. We sat down with Pierre-Olivier Clouet to find out more about the project today, and why the 2021 vintage is the most exciting to date

Technical Director Pierre-Olivier Clouet on the start of a new chapter at Cheval des Andes, the Argentinian wine project from Saint-Emilion’s Cheval Blanc

Turning the page at Cheval des Andes

South America’s finest Argentina and Chile have rapidly become hotspots for fine wine. Offering high-altitude sites with glorious sunshine, and varied soils, it’s no surprise that some of Bordeaux’s top estates have ventured into the two nations. Cheval Blanc's Argentinian collaboration with Terrazas de los Andes, Cheval des Andes, is unsurprisingly impressive. The estate works with high-altitude sites to produce a Malbec-based blend. The 2018 that is set to be released this year has already been rated highly by James Suckling (98 points), who wrote, “This will be a great wine indeed.” First Growth Ch. Mouton Rothschild works with Concha y Toro in Chile’s Maipo Valley to produce Almaviva – a wine that has, in Suckling’s words, become “a benchmark for the reds of the Andes”. He awarded 97 points to the 2019 and describes it as “extremely perfumed… vertical and integrated”. Bodega Catena Zapata – one of Mendoza’s leading names – will release the 2018 vintage of its top wines, Nicolás Catena Zapata and Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae. The latter is a Malbec from a 1.4-hectare plot which sits at almost 5,000 feet, while Nicolás Catena Zapata is the estate’s flagship wine – and Argentina’s first “Grand Vin”, made with the finest fruit from ungrafted vines on the family’s high-altitude sites. Both have earned high praise with the Wine Advocate’s Luis Gutiérrez describing the 2018 as “among the finest vintages for the Mundus Bacillus Terrae” (98 points). The Chadwick family – who own Errázuriz – will also release the 2019 vintages of their top cuvées, Seña and Viñedo Chadwick. Made by Francisco Baettig, these are incredible wines – earning 98 and 99 points from James Suckling, respectively. Last but not least is Clos Apalta, the Chilean estate that produces the finest expression of Carménère in the world. The 2018 is another excellent release, with 98 points from James Suckling. Super Tuscan stars The 2018 vintage in Tuscany was stunning – producing wines of elegance and freshness. While some of the Super Tuscans have already been released, a handful will be available via La Place this month. Masseto – the cult Ornellaia breakout star, described as the “Pétrus of Italy” – and the third vintage of its second wine, Massetino, will be released. Produced in tiny volumes, these extraordinary expressions of Merlot will be in unsurprisingly high demand. Solaia – Tignanello’s sibling from the Antinori stable – is set to be similarly popular, as ever. Giving it 98 points, Antonio Galloni of Vinous wrote, “I can't remember ever tasting a young Solaia with this much sheer appeal and balance in the early going.” The month will also see the latest releases from Bibi Graetz. The artist-turned-winemaker works with old vines and indigenous varieties to produce elegant expressions of Chianti. The 2019 Colore received 99 points from James Suckling who described it as “old-vine magic”, finding the 2019 Testamatta serious and structured (97 points). Cult California September sees a flurry of the Golden State’s most illustrious names hit the market. Opus One – the joint venture between Mondavi and Ch. Mouton Rothschild – is consistently in demand, and no more so for the 2018, with 98 points from Wine Advocate’s Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW and 99 points from Suckling. Having tasted it ourselves – we can vouch for the elegance of the vintage. It’s also worth paying attention to the new release of Overture (also based in the 2018 vintage), which is undoubtedly the best to date. Keep an eye out for the top-scoring 2018s from Vérité (100 points for La Muse, 98 points for La Joie and 97+ for Le Désir from Wine Advocate); the latest release of Joseph Phelps’ Insignia, the original Napa Valley proprietary red (2018 – with 97+ points from Wine Advocate); the 2019s from L’Aventure – the Pasa Robles estate run by Bordelais expat Stephan Asseo; and the 2017 vintage of Dominus (97+ points from Wine Advocate) – the cult wine from Christian Moueix of Pétrus. The new vintage from Maya Dalla Valle – who trained at Pétrus, Latour, Masseto and more, and is now heading up the family estate, Dalla Valle – is guaranteed to fly. The 2018 Maya has already got a smattering of top scores, with 100 points from Wine Advocate’s Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, who wrote, “As cerebral as it is downright hedonic, this Maya is simply jaw-dropping.” This year will also see the latest vintage of Beaulieu Vineyard’s Georges de Latour Private Reserve – Napa’s first cult wine, and only its second release via La Place. The 2018 has 98 points from both Vinous and Suckling, with Antonio Galloni describing it as “sensational”. Ex-château classics The September Series isn’t limited to the New World – with a handful of estates in Bordeaux and the Rhône joining in, including the annual release of a ready-to-drink vintage of Ch. Latour, after the First Growth left the en primeur system. This year sees a star-studded vintage, 2005, emerge from the cellars. A vintage that needs little introduction, this wine has unsurprisingly high scores; tasting it earlier this year, Antonio Galloni gave it a perfect 100 points, describing it as “life affirming”. Ch. Palmer will also release 2011; while a less illustrious vintage, Robert Parker described it as the wine of the vintage in Margaux. Cheval Blanc, meanwhile, will release the 2019 vintage of Le Petit Cheval Blanc, the property’s highly desirable white. While normally Ch. d’Yquem would also release a vintage of their sweet wine, they are holding back the 2019, so this year sees only the 2020 vintage of Y d’Yquem (the estate’s dry white) released. Looking across to the Rhône, Ch. de Beaucastel will release the 2019 vintage of their Hommage à Jacques Perrin. This cuvée comes from ancient Mourvèdre vines and is made in tiny volumes. Alistair Cooper MW of jancisrobinson.com describes it as “a powerful thoroughbred”. Top wines from further afield A handful of wines from South Africa and Australia have also made their way onto La Place. The 2018 vintage of Klein Constantia’s Vin de Constance – the iconic sweet wine with a long and fabled history – will be released this year, perhaps a comfort to sweet wine fans who won’t be getting their fix with Yquem. Only scored so far by James Suckling (98-99 points), he rightly acknowledges it as a “unique wine”. Two names from Down Under get their second release via La Place this year. The 2017 vintage of Jim Barry’s The Armagh Shiraz – a Clare Valley legend – will be joined by 2018 Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, a standard-bearer for Coonawarra. New this year This year sees several new names join the September Series. First up is Peter Michael Winery: founded by Sir Peter Michael CBE in the 1980s, this estate has been championing single-site, elegant wines from its corner of the Knights Valley, on the border of Napa and Sonoma, ever since. The 2018 vintage of the property’s Cabernet blends Les Pavots (from a single plot on the original Knights Valley estate, 97 points from Jeb Dunnuck) and Au Paradis (from a site in Oakville, purchased in 2009, 98 points from Jeb Dunnuck). While Robert Parker has spent much of his time rating wine, he also invested in a property in Oregon with his brother-in-law Michael Etzel. The result is Beaux Frères, now part of the Henriot stable, in Ribbon Vale, which produces world-class Pinot Noir. The 2019 vintage of the two top cuvées – from the Beaux Frères Vineyard and Upper Terrace Vineyard – will hit La Place this year. For the first time, Australia’s most famous estate, Penfolds, will release one of its wines, Bin 169 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. A classic expression of this grape on the region’s terra rossa soils, the 2018 is described as “impressive” by Suckling (97 points). Recently announced is the first vintage of Yjar – a new ultra-premium Rioja from Telmo Rodríguez. It’s described as an “outstanding first bottling” (James Suckling, 97 points) and “a wine that transcends the vintage” (Luis Gutiérrez from Wine Advocate, 96 points). Learn more about La Place de Bordeaux and the September Releases or read more Editorial

September sees the latest vintages from some of the world’s top estates released via La Place de Bordeaux. Ahead of the 2021 releases, we run through the vintages and properties that you’ll want on your radar

Exploring the top 2021 wines released by some of the world’s top estates via La Place de Bordeaux.

Top 2021 estate releases via La Place de Bordeaux

September Series: the 2021 edition unpacked

The most famous vineyard in Argentina is named after Dr Adrianna Catena, who is the youngest daughter of pioneering vigneron Nicolás Catena Zapata. As well as her viticultural endeavours at Catena Zapata and her partnership with Alejandro Vigil as co-founder of the cult Argentine winery El Enemigo, she is a practicing historian.  Her area of interest is the 15th and 16th century Americas – a time when wine (and the vine) were first introduced to the continent following the Spanish conquest. The pivotal role of wine in Catholic ritual, and the dangers associated with drinking fresh water, she believes, would shape the development of wine production in the Americas. For Catena, the intimate relationship between wine and water continues to play a central role in shaping Mendoza’s social landscape.  The history of water and wine in South America is a fascinating topic for Catena. Although her PhD thesis focused on the trade in indigo dye from the Americas to Europe, her attachment to wine – as well as the very real concerns of water scarcity in Mendoza – are subjects important to her as a historian and as a vigneron. Through the Catena Institute of Wine (CIW), the Catena Zapata winery has pioneered research in viticulture across a broad rand of topics. It includes ground-breaking work on terroir, ageability, and soil biodiversity, as well as in depth studies on extreme elevation vine growing in a context of changing climatic conditions – but some of their most pressing work centres around water preservation.  “Water preservation is one of our most important areas of research today,” says Catena. “Organic farming is easier in the very dry climate of Mendoza, than in Bordeaux, where higher rainfall and relative humidity mean vineyards will be more susceptible to fungal diseases – for us, when it comes to a sustainable future and regenerative farming, water preservation is key.” Catena Zapata’s head viticulturalist Luis Reginato is nicknamed “the water guy” at Catena – such is his obsession.  “He’s always trialing new, experimental ways to save water.” But she notes, the region has a long successful history of water management for Reginato to tap into. “The irrigation systems developed by the native Huarpe people before the arrival of Europeans were key to successful agriculture in the region, and these systems are still in use today,” says Catena.  For centuries, irrigation channels and aqueducts have diverted water from the Andes mountains to terrace lower Andes farmlands, bringing fresh drinking water to the cities. The Incas, Catena says, whose power extended briefly to this region, were quite unique among early modern empires in the quality of their nutrition and a notable absence of famine – made possible by terraced agriculture on the Andean slopes and complex irrigation systems.  While advanced water networks had been essential to pre-Hispanic and later colonial agriculture, Europeans treated drinking water with caution. “Up until the last century, it was a common belief that water, especially in exotic or tropical regions, could be bad for your health,” says Catena. “Contaminated water could (and can still) kill you and was considered extremely dangerous.” Wine in many parts of Europe (and the Americas, following the Spanish conquest) along with ales and beer, was often considered a safer option. Where they felt there was no access to clean water, wine became an essential part of the diet.  Wine was a key European import in the early days of the Spanish conquest, notes Catena. And for the Spaniards, it was not without its health benefits. “During this period, medicine was humoral, people believed everything you ingested would affect your mood, health, and disposition,” she explains. “In one claim from the time, ‘vino‘ (wine) came from the word ’vena‘ (vein) – it was considered nourishing, and closely resembles blood and was associated with this. Some believed it fortified the veins.”  But, as Catena explains, wine was more than a health benefit for the conquistador. “Wine was also an essential symbol of Christianity and Christianity was a moving force in the Spanish conquest.” The conquest of Mexico would roughly coincide with the start of Luther’s Reformation.  The Spanish, for their part, wanted to secure a triumph for Catholicism, and in the inhabitants of the new world, saw millions of souls to fill their ranks against the Protestants. “It was the conquistador’s mission,” she says. “Behind the conquest was a big effort to convert the native population.” Catena explains how wine – as with wheat – was a highly symbolic food for Christianity, representing the blood of Christ.  “If you are trying to convert an entire native population to Catholicism, rituals will be fundamental,” she says. Wine had always held a central role in religious ritual and was key to the religious side of the Conquest. Conquistadors, she explains, had to build a church on their land after being awarded territory by the Crown for their service – and they were also made responsible for converting the indigenous population. “In this quest, as one historian put it, to advance the religious and territorial conquest – the two basic foods the Spanish needed were wheat and wine.” Initially, all wine was imported from Europe, but vines were swiftly introduced and acclimated. By the 1570s vineyards had been planted all over South America, albeit under strict regulations. Priests, for example, were allowed to plant vineyards – but there was a lot of legislation over who could and couldn’t grow grapes. By the 1570s vineyards had been planted all over the Americas.  For health, religious and cultural reasons, everyone drank wine in 16th and 17th century South America – it was part of the diet, explains Catena. But as the influence of humoral medicine waned following the Enlightenment – and better sanitation practices were discovered – the perceived symbolic benefits of wine declined. As the population grew exponentially in the 19th century, so did wine production in Argentina. Italian and Spanish immigrants arrived on the continent, leaving behind their famine-stricken homelands. “Wine consumption reached extraordinary levels,” says Catena, “particularly with the development of the railways.” This new technology enabled the speedy, efficient transportation of wine from producing regions to the Argentine capital of Buenos Aires. Nicola Catena was one such immigrant, who arrived in Mendoza in 1898 at the age of 17, planting his first vineyard in 1902. A native of Le Marche, from a family of vinegrowers, it was not so surprising that Catena went into wine production.  While Mendoza is much like a desert with very little rainfall (between 200 and 400 mm per year), the irrigation channels developed by the indigenous Huarpe people (a nation periodically under Inca rule), were used to divert snow melt from the Andes, enabling farmers to flood farmland when required, making viticulture possible. By the time Nicola’s son Domingo Catena took over, the family had become renowned winemakers in Mendoza. In more modern times, wine and water’s relationship has changed considerably. Wine in many instances has become a luxury and no longer an essential part of the diet – although Catena says that culturally wine remains a common sight at every meal in Argentina.  Under the guardianship of Nicolás Catena and now his daughter Laura, Catena Zapata has become among a growing number of quality-led producers in Mendoza whose wines compete with the finest in the world. Their top wines – Mundus Bacillus Terrae and Nicolás Catena – led the charge in putting Mendoza on the fine wine map. Water too is no longer viewed with as much caution, but nor is it taken for granted. It barely rains at all in Mendoza – with the region effectively a high-altitude desert. Without snowmelt from the mountains, agriculture here would be impossible, but glacial reserves in Argentina are decreasing. With climate change, water in these parts will no longer be simply available at the turn of a tap. “The preservation of water has become an important concern of winemaking in Mendoza. This is one of the most urgent questions for our region today,” says Catena. Ongoing research at Catena includes many water-saving experiments. “More than a decade ago we transitioned all our vineyards from the traditional, but wasteful system of flood irrigation, to drip irrigation. Since then, we’ve created reservoirs to capture rainwater, and set up water stations to measure and restrict irrigation to the bare minimum in our family vineyards.” For Catena, “these small changes can have a large and lasting impact.” The goal at Catena is to manage a regenerative and sustainable agricultural cycle. Catena notes how the Incas were able to transform their environment without causing irreparable damage to it. “We can inhabit this earth without being parasitical,” she says. As members of a larger viticultural community, Catena hopes to share the lessons it has learned from its research, to enable this region that has been shaped by water and wine to continue making high-quality wine centuries from now. Optimistically she says, “We believe we are at a tipping point, and the mindset is gathering momentum here more than ever before.” Since wine was introduced to the continent in the 16th century, there have been huge cultural changes. But the irrigation systems that allowed those first vines to grow remain in use, feeding the countless vineyards, often centuries old. Without water, there will be no wine. With Argentinian wine so popular around the world today, a lot rides on Catena Zapata’s research. The hope is that they can lead the charge, shaping a bright future for this region. Browse all listings from Catena Zapata and El Enemigo or read more Editorial 

Dr Adrianna Catena – of Catena Zapata and El Enemigo – is not just a winemaker, but a practicing historian. We sat down with her to talk about how wine shaped South America’s social landscape and how water conservation and sustainable irrigation practices will secure its future.

Dr Adrianna Catena from Catena Zapata and El Enemigo on the historical importance of water and wine in the Americas.

Talking to historian and vigneron Adrianna Catena

How water and wine shaped a civilisation: Adrianna Catena

For a long time, La Place de Bordeaux – as you might guess from its name – only distributed Bordeaux. But that all changed in 1998, when Almaviva – the collaboration between Concha y Toro and Baroness Philippine de Rothschild (of Ch. Mouton Rothschild) – joined La Place. With Mouton’s standing in Bordeaux, it was a sensible step for the property to use the region’s established network to distribute its new Chilean venture. In 2004, Opus One – Mouton Rothschild’s California collaboration with Mondavi (now Constellation Brands), and arguably Napa’s most famous winery – moved to distribute exclusively via La Place. At first it wasn’t an easy sell for Bordeaux négociants: these New World wines simply weren’t appealing to traditional buyers of Bordeaux, despite their Old World pedigree. Négociants also found that with the sheer wealth of choice on offer from Bordeaux, additional wines from the US and South America were just diluting the market. But today a shift in winemaking – with more focus on site expression and an emphasis on elegance rather than power – has seen these New World icons competing with the world’s very best on the fine wine stage. This shift combined with consistent high praise from critics has created a global audience that realises the quality, and value, on offer from these properties. While once they might have been thankful they didn’t have the added pressure to sell beyond Bordeaux, négociants are now kicking themselves that they don’t have access to stock of these wines. Fabulous vintages from the US, Chile and Italy have bolstered sales on La Place in years when Bordeaux en primeur has struggled (as with the 2017s).  Despite a difficult start, distribution via La Place proved to be a huge success: Opus One doubled its exports, building the fanatical global following that it has today. Since then, a swathe of producers from around the world has followed suit, using Bordeaux’s impressive distribution network to place their wines throughout the international market. And it’s a brilliant way to do so: wineries with little in the way of marketing and distribution can gain access to thousands of merchants within hours by offering their wine through La Place. In turn, this gives them indirect access to millions of customers around the world, something that would otherwise simply not be financially feasible. Masseto – which was first offered on La Place in 2008 – was the first wine without ties to Bordeaux to join La Place, and kick-started an influx of Italian fine wines, including Antinori’s Solaia, Bibi Graetz’s Testamatta and Colore, Caiarossa and Galatrona. Alongside some of California’s most famous Cabernets – Vérité, Joseph Phelps, Inglenook and more – and South America’s most respected names – such as Catena Zapata, Cheval des Andes and Seña – September is now one of the busiest times in the fine wine calendar, with new releases from around the world offered via La Place. While its roots may be firmly in Bordeaux, La Place has become the home of global fine wine – offering producers an international audience, and giving consumers access to some of the wine world’s most desirable names. Read more about how La Place works or discover more Editorial

Each September, a selection of the world's finest wines are released via La Place de Bordeaux. We look at how these prestigious properties – from South America, California, Italy and beyond – found their way into Bordeaux’s distribution network

Each September a selection of the world's finest wines are released via La Place de Bordeaux. Learn more about it and browse exclusive releases

How La Place de Bordeaux marketplace works

The rise of the September releases: how La Place went global

When a red blend from Chile became the first wine from outside Bordeaux to be offered on La Place in 1998, it no doubt ruffled a few feathers. Could the New World, let alone South America, ever rival the quality of wines being made in Bordeaux? In the late 1990s, the answer was frankly no. Today, however, the fine wine market is keeping its eye on Chile’s leading estates with good reason. Not because they can rival Bordeaux in style, but because Chile’s winemakers are defining a style all of their own and discovering the potential of their top terroirs.  Gone are the days of overripe fruit, heavy-handed oak and 15% alcohol wines which dominated the scene during the height of Robert Parker’s influence in the early 2000s. Today vintners are focusing on making chiselled and elegant reds, as a result of much earlier harvesting and more restraint in the cellar – but, most importantly, these wines are all about balancing the freshness and nuance of their mountain terrains with the vibrant fruit profile and fine tannins these sunny lands offer. In the past decade, thousands of soil pits have been dug across Chile’s wine regions as winemakers get under the skin of their Chilean DNA — an endeavour well worth the effort as recent vintages show. Here are the regions at the forefront today.  Alto Maipo  It’s no coincidence that Château Mouton Rothschild’s Chilean venture with Concha y Toro, Almaviva in Alto Maipo, was the first non-Bordeaux wine to reach La Place. Maipo had been at the heart of Chile’s great Bordeaux imitation game since the 19th century, and on paper, Alto Maipo has a lot in common with Bordeaux: the same red varieties planted on similar gravels of river terraces.    Today, however, the best wines – including Almaviva and Viñedo Chadwick – focus on what makes Alto Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon and blends distinctive. In high-altitude Puente Alto in particular, the purity of the Andean sunlight at over 700 metres’ altitude offers a flamboyance of cassis and blackcurrant aromas, while cool mountain nights revive the grapes, giving the wines tension, filigree tannins and fragrant wild herb aromas. It’s this seductive combination which marks Alto Maipo as a Grand Cru of Chile.  Aconcagua  Further north, the Chadwick family has been making bold wines from valley floor vineyards in the warm Mediterranean climate of Aconcagua for over a century. Since the 1990s, however, they have been planting on the slopes and the more interesting colluvial soils found in the Andes foothills and towards the coastal mountain range.  Their iconic Seña blend, which originated as a collaboration with Robert Mondavi in 1995, has become increasingly refined under the hand of Chilean winemaker Francisco Beattig in recent vintages. Select plots of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec are synthesised into a balanced wine of 13.5% which prioritises harmony over power and carries graphite, cedar and blackberry aromas, trademarks of contemporary Aconcagua wines.  Apalta  One of Chile’s few DOs reflecting a place rather than a political region, the hill of Apalta has become world-renowned as one of the country’s best terroirs, with some of the best-known estates in Chile. Lapostolle, the biodynamic estate of the Bournet Lapostolle family, has been instrumental in developing the reputation and character of Apalta wines.  The key to Apalta today, and their iconic Clos Apalta property is the unique microclimate and kaleidoscopic palate of profiles the winemaker can draw from on this diverse hill site in Colchagua – from rich old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon on the clay soils of the valley floor, to the linear Merlot and peppery Carménère from Apalta’s southeast-facing granite slopes. These complex blends with black cherry and black pepper aromas, a full body and silky finish have become highly sought-after trademarks of Apalta wines today.  Chile’s winemakers are increasingly site-specific in their quest to show the potential of their unique country, with new and exciting vineyards being planted from the limestone-encrusted soils on the coast of the Atacama Desert down to the volcanic slopes of Osorno in Chilean Patagonia. And while there are no doubt many more Grands Crus in the making in Chile, those that have risen to the fore in the fine wine market today show precision, focus and a far greater self-understanding and appreciation than ever before.  Explore all current Chilean wine listings or read more Editorial 

Chile’s most iconic wines have come a long way in the last decade. With producers increasingly focusing on expressing site rather than creating a particular style, a handful of areas are emerging as the country’s Grands Crus, as Amanda Barnes reveals

Chile’s most iconic wines have come a long way in the last decade. We explore the region and producers such as Clos Apalta, Almaviva, Chadwick and more

Chile's Grand Cru wines explained

Chile's Grands Crus explained

While at the top end, Chile has historically been known for its Bordeaux-style blends, the country has a staggering range of climates to choose from. But prior to Errázurriz’s Las Pizarras range of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Aconcagua Costa, the Burgundy grapes had not seen great success in Chile. The last few vintages of these wines – made by Francisco Baettig – have, however, turned the tide, proving that Chile can work with much more than the Bordeaux varieties. But why did it take so long for the country to reach this realisation? Francisco believes that up until 15 years ago the Pinot Noir in Chile simply wasn’t good – low-quality clones, infected with viruses, and often planted in the wrong place. He also thinks that the influence of Bordeaux hung too heavily, meaning Pinot was being picked far too late, producing wines that were too sweet and too heavy. Since the mid-2000s, however, better plant material has been available and now, 15 years on, these vines are reaching maturity – and their potential.  But Las Pizarras is just one style of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – and Francisco knew that a very different style could be achieved further south, where radiation is lower and there’s enough rainfall to allow vines to be dry-farmed. Francisco’s grandparents lived in the southern region of Traiguén, on a farm fittingly called “La Vigna”, and it had always been his
dream to return to his roots to make wine there. It so happened that his friend, and business partner in his new venture, Carlos had ties to the region too – and so together quickly settled on making wine here.  Traiguén is the southernmost wine-producing region in Chile, in line with Argentina’s Patagonia; as such radiation is 25% lower than in Central Chile. For Francisco, this was key: there’s less chance of the grapes being sunburnt (especially important for delicate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), while also not requiring as thick a canopy to shield the grapes from the hot sun (as having lots of leaves can lead to green flavours in the grapes). Higher levels of radiation also cause grape skins to thicken, meaning wines are more tannic – something that Francisco was looking to avoid in ethereal expressions inspired by Burgundy. Finally, there’s also much more natural acidity in the fruit, meaning he could craft wines with real tension.  Another incentive behind the project was to discover a more sustainable solution for the long-term wine production in Chile. Irrigation is becoming a real concern in Central Chile. While Chile and Argentina have been blessed with the Andes, producers rely on snow melt to irrigate vineyards. In a dry season like 2019, there was no snow on the mountains and water reserves completely dried out. Francisco states that 40 years ago the average rainfall in Santiago was around 500mm a year: now the average is close to 300mm, and in 2019 it was just 70mm. Traiguén, by contrast, saw 850mm of rain in 2019 – meaning there is no need to depend on irrigation. Beyond the issue of sustainability, however, in Francisco’s view irrigation can be a problem when it comes to fine wine, as it’s all too easy to over-water vines, preventing them seeking out water and establishing deep roots. He believes that deep, complex root systems are essential for producing a wine of the soil, rather than a wine of the sun.  It took two years to find the perfect spot for the new project. Francisco brought Burgundian geologist and friend Françoise Vannier-Petit over to help seek out the right site. Eventually they found a corner of Francisco’s cousin’s property in Traiguén with the right soils and microclimate. Together they planted 15 hectares in 2013 at high density (7,000 vines per
hectare) with carefully selected Burgundy clones. There are nine hectares of Pinot Noir and six of Chardonnay, with three clones and rootstocks for each variety spread over five distinct parcels. Long-term, Francisco hopes to produce single-vineyard wines from these plots, showcasing the varied terroir of this volcanic region. The first commercially available wines are remarkable. The entry-level bottlings are the Vino de Viñedo Los Parientes Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – with fruit sourced from across the property, while the top grapes are reserved for the top Seleccion de Parcelas Los Primos cuvées. All the wines clearly display the nervosity, tension and minerality of cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but with a New World ripeness thanks to Chile’s sunny climate. Production in these early days is miniscule – with less than 150 cases of each wine made in 2018 – and the aim is to keep the operation human-sized. This project is a true labour of love for Francisco, investing significant personal savings in what he believes to be the ideal terroir for ethereal-styled Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. With such exciting results already, we can’t wait to watch the project evolve over the coming years. Explore all Baettig listings or read more Editorial 

Francisco Baettig – the man behind Errázuriz, Seña and Viñedo Chadwick – is without doubt Chile’s most celebrated winemaker. But 25 years into his career, he’s striking out to make wines under his own name. We caught up with him to find out about the exciting project

We talk to Francisco Baettig, the winemaker behind Seña and Viñedo Chadwick, about his new wine project in Traiguén in Chile

Francisco Baettig beyond Seña and Viñedo Chadwick

Looking south: Francisco Baettig’s cool-climate quest

Some wine regions dance to the beat of their own drum. From the sweeter reds of Ethiopia’s Rift Valley to the soft-styled fizz of Altos de Pinto Bandeira, Arnica Rowan explores far-flung regions with distinctive approaches to growing vines and making wine – almost exclusively for their own people

Arnica Rowan explores wines that don’t make it to the international market – with distinctive styles from Ethiopia, Brazil, Thailand and beyond

Discover the wines of Ethiopia, Brazil and beyond

Not for export

From January 2021, the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur appellations permit the use of several new varieties – Touriga Nacional, Marselan, Castets and Arinarnoa, as well as two white grapes, Alvarinho and Liliorila, the theory being they’ll help shield the region from the ever-growing threat of global warming. As the region heats up, or more importantly dries up, some of the Bordeaux mainstay varieties are suffering from rising alcohol levels, disease and water stress. The new varieties all possess properties that counter climate change – natural high acidities, resistance to mildew and later budburst to offset the risk of spring frosts. While the recent changes only affect wines under the more basic Bordeaux appellations, are they paving the way for a wider relaxation in the region’s rules? And does that mean the flavour profile and identity of Bordeaux’s top châteaux are about to change? For Pierre-Olivier Clouet at Ch. Cheval Blanc there is concern over the potential of the varietal blend (encépagement) changing. “We believe that the encépagement is part of the DNA and the identity of the estate,” says Clouet. “Planting some Touriga Nacional, Grenache, Syrah at Cheval Blanc… it seems ridiculous.” While plenty of winemakers up and down the Médoc are dismissive of the idea, the warming climate is not selective – and even the top terroirs are going to be affected. The 2020 vintage was the hottest on record when you look at the temperatures throughout the 12-month period. The summer was also one of the driest, with not a single drop of rain in some regions for over three months. Pomerol, according to Omri Ram of Ch. Lafleur, is into its fifth consecutive year of drought and these weather patterns are becoming the norm in the region. Clearly some terroirs are better prepared for climate change than others. The clay soils of Saint-Estèphe and the limestone bedrock of Saint-Emilion, for instance, survived 2020’s drought virtually unscathed. These water-retaining soils are adept at locking in moisture and slowly releasing it through the drier months. But the deep gravel soils of the Left Bank are putting vines in real danger during long periods of drought. Lorraine Watrin from Ch. Montrose outlined the huge difficulties faced at their other Saint-Estèphe estate Ch. Tronquoy-Lalande, where (unlike Montrose) the estate’s gravel soils go down a staggering 10 metres. The drainage is so good on these soils that when there is no rain, the vines really suffer. Montrose is more fortunate, having just 1.5 metres of gravel sitting on a bed of moisture-retaining clay. But ongoing droughts are going to pose real problems for deeper gravel vineyards in the future – and solutions need to be found. Despite the obvious threat of drought, speaking with top estates on the Left Bank, they remain fairly comfortable about their future, even though their best soils are on raised gravel beds. The reason why? Cabernet Sauvignon. As temperatures have increased and the level of rainfall has dropped, Cabernet Sauvignon has proved its mettle. The vine is incredibly resistant to disease and its long ripening cycle has seen the variety thrive in the longer, more intense summers. Nicolas Glumineau from Ch. Pichon Comtesse is a big fan of Cabernet Sauvignon and has continued to increase its role in his wines’ make-up over the last decade. “Even if the temperature increases, Cabernet Sauvignon will still be very adaptive to the Left Bank,” he says. In their 2020, the wine consisted of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon with a further 7% Cabernet Franc, Merlot representing just 17% of the blend. Glumineau is not alone, in fact amongst all the producers I spoke to, there was little to no concern over Cabernet Sauvignon’s future and its dominance in their blends in the long term. Being such a large wine-growing region and with plenty of investment, Bordeaux is a hotbed for change, but Ducru-Beaucaillou's Bruno Borie thinks the addition of new varieties is premature. He reminds us that Bordeaux is one of the more moderate climates in Europe. It wasn’t that long ago his father was forced to plant more Merlot to avoid having to chaptalise the wines (add sugar to the must) because the Cabernet Sauvignon wasn’t ripe enough. “Without being arrogant and with all sincerity, we benefit from having Cabernet Sauvignon riper much more often than in the past,” he says. “Bordeaux is the northern limit for ripening the grape and here there is no need to replace it.”  Merlot’s future is perhaps a little less assured on the Left Bank, as Borie admits – but he believes the alternative to Merlot is likely to be already permitted varieties, rather than new ones. “Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc should keep us going another 50 to 70 years at least,” he says. Asked why not just switch to 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, Borie believes that however hot or dry it gets, the low-lying, clay riverbed vineyards would never ripen Cabernet. Despite concerns for Merlot’s future, grown in the right places the variety continues to thrive on the Left Bank. Just look at its success in 2020, a very hot vintage. Rainfall at just the right time helped retard alcohol levels in the Merlot. For those whose cooler Cabernet Sauvignon parcels didn’t fully mature, their Merlot replaced it and played a more significant role in the blend and saved the vintage. The grape is still fulfilling its role as the balancing variety in today’s Bordeaux blend. Despite Cabernet Sauvignon’s and Merlot’s impressive performances of late, plenty of experiments are going on, even at the very top estates. Ch. Lafite-Rothschild is already trialling massal selection of their own vines and new varieties including Touriga Nacional, Marselan and Malbec. For the moment it is too early for Lafite to draw any conclusions, but they’re keeping an open mind.  While the major estates aren’t switching up the blend yet, producers are looking at peripheral Bordeaux varieties as potential alternatives. On paper, Malbec seems a good option. Before phylloxera, Malbec was the most planted variety in Bordeaux, but never really made a comeback after the outbreak. But seeing Malbec’s success in the hotter, drier mountain valleys of Argentina, could it rise back to prominence with global warming? Nicolas Audebert – winemaker at Rauzan-Ségla and previously at Cheval des Andes in Mendoza – is not so sure. Malbec in French literally means ‘”bad beak” or “bad nose”, thanks to the negative reputation the variety had in Bordeaux, even when more dominant in the blend. “Prior to phylloxera, Malbec was used as a ‘filler‘ grape,” Audebert says, “used to balance out problems in the vineyard – namely providing more colour and ripeness to the wine.” Audebert compares it to Pinot Meunier in Champagne, whose role is similar. “Pinot Meunier is less sensitive to frost, so it is planted in the more frost-prevalent lower slopes, rather than the best terroirs. It never had the chance to reach the potential of Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. Malbec suffered the same issue.” Audebert has planted Malbec at Ch. Berliquet in Saint-Emilion. He believes Malbec on clay could be extremely interesting and is keen to see how it works in the blend. But Malbec has its problems: it’s very sensitive to coulure (flowers not developing into berries, therefore producing lower yields), as well as mildew. Of the Bordeaux varieties, it responded the least well to grafting – hence why it wasn’t replanted widely in Bordeaux after phylloxera. Audebert reminds us that Argentina didn’t have these problems: “Low humidity in Mendoza meant mildew was not a problem in spring and there was no grafting, as the region used flood irrigation to battle phylloxera.” Since these remain challenges for the variety in Bordeaux, he doesn’t see it becoming more dominant in the future. Many wineries up and down the Médoc are lowering the proportion of Merlot in their blends, opting instead for more Cabernet Franc. “Blending just 5% of Cabernet Franc in with Merlot can be an effective method of lowering the alcohol, as well as adding freshness,” says John Kolasa (ex Director of Ch. Canon ). “It is something Pétrus did with the 2019 vintage. Look at the success of Ch. Figeac in 2019 – a third Cabernet Franc, a third Merlot and a third Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a big increase of Cabernet Franc in the blend and is performing better in the warming climate.” There aren’t many wineries in Bordeaux not increasing the Cabernet Franc plantings in their vineyards, given its improved performance in a warming climate. Pichon Comtesse, L’Eglise Clinet and of course long-term believers Cheval Blanc and Lafleur are all confident of the variety’s future and its growing role in the Bordeaux blend, both on the Left and Right Bank. Petit Verdot is another late ripening variety that thrives in the hotter, drier conditions. Could this peripheral variety become a star performer in Bordeaux’s future? Unlike Cabernet Franc it has yet to become more prominent in blends, often because just a small amount can dominate the structure and flavour of the wine and overpowers the more nuanced characters of Cabernet. Nicolas Glumineau is unsure that the variety is a saving grace, however. “I have some difficulties with Petit Verdot, it is a very tricky grape to grow… it’s very fragile – to wind, to rain, to many things and finally you just can’t pick it absolutely ripe every year.” While the new appellation rules allow new varieties, is changing the blend really the best solution to the ongoing issues of global warming? Ch. Margaux’s Philippe Bascaules certainly doesn’t think so. For him, changing the grape varieties is far too extreme when there are other, more subtle changes that, he believes, would be much more effective. “Currently we are at 10,000 vines per hectare but we don’t have to be,” he says. “Changing the row orientation would also have good results. Good for changing the effect of sunburn on the grapes.” Ch Pontet Canet's Justine Tesseron is another advocate of making alterations in the vineyard, not changing varieties. She is happy with how the Cabernet performs on her gravel soils and feels that there’s simply no need to experiment with other grapes. For Tesseron, the way in which the vines are farmed is more important: “A biodynamic vineyard is better placed to cope with the extremes. We treat individual vines based on their individual needs – it is all about the small details.”  Pierre-Olivier Clouet at Cheval Blanc sees a change in varieties as a last resort. He and his team have long been thinking about how to tackle global warming. “We are sure that the answer is in the vineyard management,” he says. They are looking at rootstocks, the size of the canopy, the yield (“If we want to preserve freshness, it’s better to have a little more yield”), cover crops, ploughing or no-till farming and how polyculture can help. Clouet is another Bordeaux vigneron who sees the problems – but also plenty of potential answers. They experiment a lot at their other property, Ch. Quinault l’Enclos. “We try to always be very open minded,” he says. But he is clear also that “We should never forget who we are.”  Bordeaux is awash with a mix of cautious optimism, as well as open-minded experimentation. For the time being, it doesn’t look – at least amongst the more prestigious classified estates – like they will be adding new varieties to the blend any time soon. Until alternative approaches in viticultural and vinification fail, Bordeaux’s varietal DNA looks safe. Read more about Bordeaux or explore more Editorial

Climate change poses a serious threat to wine-growers around the world. Bordeaux has just allowed the use of new grape varieties to help its producers cope with the increasingly hot, dry conditions – but what does this mean for the region’s identity? We talk to the top winemakers about the future

Cheval Blanc, Margaux, Lafleur, Lafite, Ducru-Beaucaillou and more on climate change in Bordeaux

Is climate change threatening the Bordeaux blend?

Andis

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