2014 Château Mouton Rothschild

Tasted blind. Deep garnet. Leafy fresh black fruit, smells really youthful. Lots of lead pencil. Refined, light-bodied, extremely elegant. (JH)

The grilled character on the opening beats is more campfire than gunsmoke, just a little warmer and more evident than with the Lafite, meaning both estates are very much staying true to their character. Here you get waves of peony and rose petals, with raspberry and damson fruits, feels expansive and complex, punctuated by orange peel, pomegranate, leather, espresso, black tea, sweet smoked caramel, with plenty of lift and caressting tannins. Delicious, and growing into a spectacular wine as it ages. 100% new oak, Philippe Dhalluin director.

With Hockney’s tribute to Philippine on the label. Relatively deep garnet. Very intense nose – more richness than most 2014 first growths. Quite dramatic and very Mouton with spiciness and ripe fruit plus acid and tannin. Pretty youthful. Exotic and pure Mouton, though with the moderation of the vintage. (JR)