2014 Bolgheri Superiore

From a cooler, more challenging vintage, the 2014 Ornellaia is nevertheless a beautiful wine. Based on 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot, and the rest Cabernet Franc brought up in 70% new oak, it has classy cassis and black cherry fruits as well as notes of saddle leather, dried flowers, and spicy oak. While it doesn't have the wealth of material found in the 2015 and 2016, it has solid mid-palate depth, beautiful balance, and a great finish. It's a classy, seamless Ornellaia to enjoy over the coming 15+ years or more.

The 2014 Ornellaia is a powerful, earthy wine. As has always been the case, the 2014 has a very strong, powerful imprint with heavy toast notes. In 2014, Ornellaia is very dark, with a distinctive mocha/torrefaction component that has always been one of its signatures. I confess, the 2014 remains a mystery wine. I just don't see the pedigree here that has been such a signature since the debut vintage in 1985. The 2014 has always been a difficult, stubborn Ornellaia with aggressive tannins. Time in the glass brings out a measure of aromatic freshness. Even so, the 2014 remains tightly wound and in need of time to be at its very best. Several recent bottles have all shown more or less the same.

34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot, 14% Cabernet Franc. 18 months in (70% new) oak. Tasted blind. Bright ruby. Not that concentrated. Muted nose. Sweet start and a bit bloody meat with some tartness on the end. Pretty demanding with very drying finish for now. Transparent. Wait! The most backward wine of the tasting? (JR)