2005 Contador

The 2005 Contador was selected from three parcels ranging in age from 65-80 years. Malolactic fermentation occurred in new oak followed by 12 months of barrel aging. Opaque purple/black, it has a great brooding nose of crushed stone, truffle, pencil lead, black cherry, and blackberry. Rich, layered, and opulent, on the palate the wine is dense, thick, and tightly wound. Impressively long, this wine demands 12-15 years of further cellaring. It should show at its best between 2020 and 2045. Words can barely do justice to how singular these wines are. They must be tasted to be believed. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain; tel. (781) 461-5767

At the moment this is almost all structure and not much flavour, so dense and compact is the dark ripe fruit. It’s meaty and savoury, the tannins compact and dense but not astringent – rather like caked powder. Extreme minerality and bold austerity with the fruit waiting in the wings. (JH)

Made in some years only – none in 2006 though 2007 fruit is looking very promising (Oct 07). 94% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, 3% Garnacha. Smoky black fruit, lots of dark cassis, powerful minerality and just a sense of a more herbal character not yet revealed. Cool and dense as if there were a double layer of very fine tannins. Dry and a little dusty at the moment – much too young to broach really. Yet there’s aromatic black fruit on the mid palate and it becomes more fragrant and perfumed as it opens up in the glass. Concentration comes from the fruit not from the winemaking. Powerful black fruit came much more to the fore as it opened up. Delicious and so much more to come.