2005 Château Suduiraut

With 163 grams per liter of residual sugar, the 2005 Suduiraut exhales a deep, complex bouquet of exotic fruits, pineapple, apricot and spices despite a slight touch of volatile acidity. Medium to full-bodied, rich and concentrated with a stunning "rôti"—the French term for the consequence of noble rot—it’s satiny and chiseled with racy acids and a long, mineral and saline finish underlined by gastronomic bitterness. This splendid Sauternes, a blend of 97% Sémillon and 3% Sauvignon Blanc, was matured for 18 months in oak barrels (65% new and 35% one year) and was harvested in four tries between September 26 and October 17.

Mostly Semillon yet with a splash of Sauvignon, the 2005 Château Suduiraut offers up a rockingly good perfume of orange blossom, caramelized grapefruit, flower oil, spice, and brioche. This carries to a medium to full-bodied, ripe, yet vibrant, elegant Sauternes that has a balanced, layered, light on its feet style that makes it such a joy to drink.

97% Sémillon, 3% Sauvignon Blanc. Harvested 26 September to 17 October (4 tris). Aged 18 months in oak barrels (65% new, 35% one year). RS 163 g/l, TA 3.6. Burnished gold colour. Rich and complex with caramel, confit-fruit, currant and spice notes. Rich and full on the palate with just enough tension to hold everything together. Perhaps a glow of alcohol on the finish (curious as the degree is not that high). Punchy and for the long haul. (JL)