2007 F.X. Pichler Riesling Unendlich Smaragd

The Pichler 2007 Riesling Smaragd Unendlich is focused on fruit from Steinertal, blended with Loibenberg (which has been the star of previous Unendlich bottlings), representing virtual Auslese concentration achieved by bunches on the insides of each terrace, close to the stone walls. Ripe apricot, brown spices, and toasted nuts mingle with bitter fruit pit and dark chocolate for a low-toned, exotic, clearly botrytis-tinged palate display. Where this year’s Kellerberg and Steinertal bottlings were bright and kinetic, this is darkly hued, but not without springs of vivacity. For opulence and creamy richness as well as sheer density it is hard to beat, but here alone in this year’s collection there is a hint of finishing heat (from 14.5% alcohol). Time will be needed to fully assess this, but I would want do so within 4-5 years. Lucas Pichler was one of the numerous growers to describe the relatively low alcohol and efficacious acidity of his 2007s as “classic,” even though at this address in particular, one can hardly consider that statistically correct. The finished wines remind me a bit of the superb Pichler 1999s which were lushly, at times even extravagantly fruity (not to mention intensely mineral) while remaining refreshing and moderate in alcohol. F.X. Pichler compares the best of this year’s Rieslings with his 1997s, and certainly in terms of sheer quality it is hard to argue with that assessment. The Pichlers have never favored hedging or leaf pulling, and think that the consequence this year was to protect the embryonic bunches from the searing heat and sun of July and to enhance ripening in the long autumn. Of course, the flip side of this could be the trapping of water and promotion of botyrtis. And Lucas Pichler relates that to achieve excellent Federspiel, it was necessary to laboriously cut out botrytized and otherwise imperfect portions from a substantial share of the clusters. For Pichlers (in contrast with Alzingers) – 2007 was more difficult in terms of botrytis and selection – than 2006, especially with Gruner Veltliner. In both Federspiel and Smaragd categories, they held off on picking Riesling, with (to say the least!) demonstrable success. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800