1995 Colgin

The 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon Herb Lamb is a bit juicier and more overt than the 1997 tasted alongside it in this flight. Forward, juicy and supple, but not at all over the top, the 1995 is a gorgeous wine from this late-ripening site nestled between St. Helena and Howell Mountain. At twenty years of age, the 1995 Herb Lamb is fabulous. Its only real fault is following the 1997 in this tasting.

I realize perfection in wine, like perfection in anything, is in the eyes of the beholder, and there are those who believe perfection is simply unobtainable. But in my mind, the 1996 and 1995 come close to perfection. Why? First of all, these extraordinary expressions of Cabernet Sauvignon are awesomely concentrated and endowed, while at the same time elegant and amazingly harmonious. The equilibrium between the wines' component parts - new oak, alcohol, tannin, acidity, and extract - is right on, with nothing out of place. The 1996 and 1995 could be mistaken for identical twins, although close examination reveals that the 1995 has a slightly firmer tannic edge, and the 1996 slightly lower acidity. However, both possess Colgin's tell-tale opaque black/purple color, phenomenal aromatics consisting of blackberries, raspberries, blueberries, cassis, subtle new oak, and a notion of floral scents (is it acacia or lilac?). In the mouth, both wines are full-bodied, remarkably supple and opulent, with a purity and presence of fruit that must be tasted to be believed. Their finishes last for 45+ seconds. I suspect each of these wines will get even better over the next 5-10 years before reaching their full plateau of maturity, where they should remain for two decades or more. They are the quintessential examples of Cabernet Sauvignons that marry power with elegance. As a friend said after tasting a Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon, "they float like a butterfly, but sting like a bee." I am not sure Mohammad Ali or Ann Colgin would agree with that, but it paints another picture of these extraordinary wines. These wines are made by Helen Turley, the prodigiously talented winemaker/consultant. Once again, the only way in which to purchase these wines is via the winery's mailing list. As a postscript, Ann Colgin has acquired a new vineyard called Tychson Hill, which is superbly situated near the Grace Family Vineyard adjacent to route 29 north of St. Helena, so additional Cabernet will be forthcoming in several years. Tel. (707) 524-4445

Deep ruby. Black raspberry, cassis, minerals and toffee on the nose. A big wine with impressive palate presence and sweetness; silky but very firmly built, thanks to vibrant acidity. Very long on the palate. Will require at least five or six years of bottle aging. Very strong for the vintage.