2002 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon Tanbark Hill Vineyard

(Togni's only cabernet release from the 2002 vintage) Full ruby-red. Wild, slightly reduced nose combines plum and smoked meat. Fat, soft and sweet, with fruit-driven flavors of currant, black raspberry, mocha, cedar and graphite. Togni left out all of the press wine, which was especially low in acidity. The resulting wine did not have enough structure to merit bottling under his flagship labe l. Finishes with dusty tannins and a lingering leathery taste. A good wine, but smaller-scaled for a cabernet from this producer and best suited for drinking on the early side.

As I reported last year, Philip Togni was not satisfied with his 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon. Therefore, doing what he does in other vintages where certain lots are declassified, courageously (and at considerable economic loss) he will only market a 2002 Tanbark Cabernet Sauvignon, which is excellent, possibly outstanding. Its deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by a sweet, evolved nose of cedarwood, tapenade, herbs, licorice, incense, and black currants. Enjoy it now and over the next 12-14 years. What I especially admire from the Tognis is their decision to not take advantage of the vintage’s lofty reputation (in large measure justified at the top cellars), but rather take a huge financial hit and market the wine under their junior label. This is integrity at its finest, so hats off to the Togni family. Tel. (707) 963-3731; Fax (707) 963-9186

The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Tanbark Hill is the only wine the estate made in 2002, as issues during fermentation resulted in a main label Cabernet Sauvignon that did not meet the Togni family's standards. The 2002 Tanbark Hill was made only from free-run juice. It offers up pretty scents of worn-in leather, spice and dried cherry. At this stage, the 2002 is fully mature and past its prime.