2019 Vasse Felix - Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River

92% Cabernet from the Home Vineyard in Wilyabrup plus 4% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot. Destemmed but not crushed. Mostly basket-pressed and aged in French oak (typically around 50% new but varies by vintage). A generally cooler vintage for Margaret River Cabernet. Deep crimson. Very slightly leafy, adding to the impression of freshness created by the pure dark fruit. Smells not only dark and fresh but also sweet-fruited coming after the 2008 and the 1985. But it's not just about the fruit: there's a light dusty/smoky effect. On the palate, it is elegant, generous but not overly sweet-fruited. Even that at this youthful stage the deep tannins are smoothly textured, it clearly has very good ageing potential (based on the wine balance of the wine itself and on tasting the older vintages alongside). (JH)

This classically style 2019 Bordeaux blend brings together largely Cabernet Sauvignon with Malbec and Petit Verdot plus a splash of Cabernet Franc. It's currently reserved and understated with a beautiful blend of blackcurrant and leathery aromas with a bright lift of violets and superbly integrated oak. A punchy, energetic palate follows with intense mulberry, blackcurrant and cedar flavours with a firm base of tannins. A long, strong finish suggests that time will only make it better.

Vasse Felix is a savory house—it's important to understand in order to fully understand the wines, I believe. They are driven by savory, spicy tannin (reds) and chalky, structuring extract (whites). In this cool 2019 vintage, the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is aromatically detailed, with cassis, mulberry, brine, nori, sun-dried kelp, iodine and five spice. On the palate, while the wine is structured and firm, no tannin can stop the mellifluous flow of fruit through the mouth. An impressive spool of flavor through the finish tells us about the potential this wine has for graceful aging in the cellar. Drink it at any time, but cellar it with confidence for 15 years plus.