2006 Orion Syrah
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Tasting notes
(15.5% alcohol): Deep ruby. Slightly high-toned, quickly evolving aromas of dark fruits, herbs, pepper and nutty oak; the combination of a slightly raw pine bark quality and a hint of stewed fruit suggests quick ripening of the grapes. Liqueur-like and high-toned in the mouth, showing a thickness of texture along with slightly spiky acidity. Conveys an overripe/underripe quality, finishing with substantial dusty tannins. I find this highly concentrated wine very disjointed; it may well be going through a dumb phase. (A second bottle was similar.) The most puzzling vintage of the tasting.
Critic scores
Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
As for Thackrey's flagship wine, the 2006 Orion from the Rossi Vineyard is a cuvee from a field blend of old vines planted in 1905. This wine, like so many of its previous renditions, has an inky purple/black color and a superb nose of blueberry and black raspberries intermixed with forest floor and floral undertones. Its striking aromatics are followed by a full-bodied wine with a multi-dimensional personality, terrific texture, purity, silky tannins, and a blockbuster finish. Everything is in perfect balance. The wine is superbly pure, very expressive, and a real attention grabber, but at the same time it is classic in every sense. This is a beautiful example of a wine that pays homage to pre-Prohibition pioneers and their field blends, which have fortunately been preserved in this legacy wine. Drink it over the next 15 or more years. One of California's most iconic and mystical winemakers, Sean Thackrey has logged in 20 or more vintages of consistently stunning wines that perhaps say it all with the simple quote on his label: -Sean A. Thackrey, Vintner, Bolinas, California.- For availability and buying the wines, visit Thackrey's website, www.wine-maker.net.