2019 M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonniers
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Tasting notes
Saturated ruby. Expansive aromas of ripe blackberry, cherry liqueur, licorice, vanilla and candied violet are energized by exotic spice and mineral flourishes. Broad and fleshy on the palate, offering densely packed, smoke-laced black and blue fruit, mocha, olive paste, exotic spice and floral pastille flavors that show fine detail and mineral lift. The impressively long, smoky finish echoes the floral and mineral notes and is framed by steadily building, even tannins. Raised in oak barrels, 25% of them new.
Critic scores
Alistair Cooper MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jeb Dunnuck
More reviews and scores
The 2019 Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers comes from site just to the west of Hermitage, and this cuvée is always a more Hermitage-like, structured wine. While I think the soils here (broken granite) are brilliant, the downside of this vineyard is that it lies in the shade most days and only gets afternoon sun. It produces a big, burly wine that needs bottle age, and top vintages can evolve for over two decades. The 2019 has pure cassis, graphite, and peppery aromatics as well as a rich, full-bodied, concentrated style on the palate. I love its tannins, the balance as well as the purity of fruit are spot on, and this is another beautiful Crozes Hermitage that would pass undetected in a lineup of top Hermitage. Give bottles 5-6 years and enjoy over the following two decades.
The 2019 Crozes Hermitage les Varonniers features intense aromas of cherries and vanilla, plus hints of cassis and pencil shavings (it aged in 20% new oak, with 70% in barriques and 30% in demi-muids). Full-bodied, dense and rich, it's firmly tannic, with a long, dusty finish. Set it aside for a few years before pulling the cork.
100% Syrah. Cask sample. Tasted at the domaine. Really expressive – vivid black-olive tapenade and smoked sandalwood. A sense of freshness and fine cedary tannins with gaminess, smokiness and blackberry. Opulent but not unbalanced and a long creamy compote finish. (AC)