2008 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

(includes 6% cabernet franc and 5% petit verdot): Good deep ruby-red. Aromas and flavors of black cherry, blackberry, crushed stone and menthol. Sweet and lively on the palate, with lovely clarity and vinosity. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and excellent length. This will gain in complexity with another five years of cellaring. "Embrace the menthol," notes winemaker Andy Smith. "It's a character of the vineyard."

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate (89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot aged 20 months in 60% new French oak) reveals a Medoc-like nose of cedarwood, damp earth, black currants and hints of bay leaf and unsmoked cigar tobacco. Opulence, purity and density combined with a thick, full-bodied mouthfeel and a superb finish all suggest a wine that can be drunk now or cellared for two decades. When people talk about the greatest vineyards of Napa Valley, Larkmead has to be among the top half dozen or so terroirs. This historic vineyard dates back to the late 1800s and has been owned by the Solari family (currently Cam Baker and Kate Solari Baker) since 1948. The well-known Andy Smith is the consulting winemaker (he is also the force behind some of the brilliant wines of DuMol in the Russian River Valley). Larkmead has been making terrific wines over the last 5-6 years, but the 2007s were the finest wines I have ever tasted from this estate. The 2008s are very close in quality to the 2007s, and every 2008 performed better from bottle than it did last year from barrel (always a good sign). The Larkmead Vineyard (just over 120 acres) has again achieved remarkable success in 2009. These offerings are among the stars of the 2009 vintage. If the 2008s and 2007s were versions of Napa Valley meeting Pauillac, the 2009s might be considered Napa Valley wines meeting both Pomerol and Pauillac. They all possess silky tannins, deep, concentrated fruit, full body and upfront personalities that will make them even more charming than the brilliant 2007s and 2008s. There is lots of depth as well as perfumed characters in the 2009s. In fact, their aromatics may turn out to be even more intense and expansive than in either 2008 or 2007. In case you missed them, although I think they are completely sold out, the scores awarded to the 2007s last year are: 2007 LMV Salon (97), 2007 Firebelle (93), 2007 Solari Reserve (96+), 2007 The Lark (96+), and 2007 Estate (94+). Tel. (707) 942-0167; Fax (707) 942-6934

(includes 7% cabernet franc and 4% petit verdot) Bright ruby. Good full medium ruby. Lively aromas of cassis and minerals. Sweet, ripe and easygoing if not yet particular complex. Very pure currant and dark raspberry fruit flavors are given sex appeal by a gravelly element. Finishes bright and sweet, with rather pliant tannins and a lingering note of chocolatey oak.