2020 Mas de Daumas Gassac Vin de Pays de l'Herault
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A quintessentially southern wine, the 2020 IGP Saint-Guilhem-Le-Désert Cité D’Aniane is extremely refined on the palate, dancing like satin silk, with a shiny side and a rougher edge. Very floral and complex, with the freshness of a mountain spring, it has depth, an airy texture, and a sensation of horizon on the taste buds. It’s beautiful now and (very) far from having said its last word. Drink 2025-2045. For over thirty years, Mas de Daumas Gassac has been one of the most prominent estates in Languedoc. Located in the Terrasses du Larzac region, it was founded in 1971 by Véronique Guibert and her husband Aimé, when the couple fell in love with an old, abandoned farmhouse in the Gassac valley, near the former Aniane Abbey. Contrary to the trends of the time, they planted Cabernet Sauvignon from an old mass selection, and although half of the first production of nearly 20,000 bottles in 1978 was still distributed to friends, things quickly changed. By 1982, the estate had gained recognition that has only grown since then, to the point where today the bottles are quite difficult to find. Until 1985, they only produced red wine, and in 1986, white wine was added to their range. The generational change in the 2000s did nothing to alter the success and quality of the wines, although the range expanded and the vineyard grew. The vineyard is now planted not only with Cabernet Sauvignon, but also with local and foreign grape varieties, with the distinctive feature that the vines are all mass-selected from old, uncloned vines. But the most distinctive feature of the estate is, of course, its wines. The reds show great finesse, and one could almost say that, despite the strong presence of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, they have a lightness reminiscent of Pinot Noir. As for the whites, this year they stole the show from the reds, verging on perfection with their drinkability and aging potential, complexity, and pleasure. While these wines are certainly not cheap, in my opinion they are well worth the price.
Critic scores
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Syrah, 5% Tannat, 4% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Pinot Noir, 2% Malbec, 4% rare varieties (Abouriou, Nielluccio, Montepulciano, Saperavi, Carmenère, Tempranillo). 50% is aged in oak barrels, only one in seven new, and the balance in stainless steel. Total barrel ageing between 8 and 13 months. Bright crimson. Mellow, resolved nose. Rich, spicy and confident with a little tannin still evident but a great balance between the complex fruit and acidity. There’s a hint of what you would smell walking round a port lodge, though this definitely isn’t too sweet. Should develop well. (JR)
The 2020 Rouge is loaded with potential. Pronounced spice-box, garrigue , cassis, crushed violets and a dash of cardamom compose the complex aromatic profile. Offering a smooth mouthfeel of polished tannins, the medium to full-bodied 2020 packs excellent flavor concentration and brings it home with a long finale. It says: watch me.
The newest vintage of this classic Languedoc red is a solid effort. The 2020 IGP Saint Guilhem le Desert is 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, with no more than 6% of any other single grape variety present. Naturally, cassis elements lead the way, backed by black cherries and herbal notes, plus a subtle, barely noticeable layer of cedar tying everything together. It's medium to full-bodied, streamlined and smooth in feel, with a long, silky, elegant finish.