2012 Keller Riesling G-Max

Served blind, Keller's 2012 Riesling G-Max is the fourth wine of the vertical tasting, following the warm vintages of 2005, 2007 and 2009. The wine opens with clear, ripe, slightly warm and even creamy fruit with citrus aromas and stony nuances as well as still reductive phenolic notes. Elegant, juicy and spicy on the palate, with fine salinity yet without the power and sustainability of the first three Rieslings, Keller's 2012 G-Max embodies a rather classic, middle-aged style that should not be underestimated. Tasted at Steinheuer's Restaurant Zur Alten Post, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, in January 2024.

Tasted blind. An American critic once gave 100 points to the G-Max 2012, but scores are always awarded in a context of time and occasion, and there can be no more thankless task for any wine than having to go head-to-head with the incredible G-Max 2009. In its present phase the 2012 is a little subdued, but does reveal glimpses of the traditional virtues of Riesling with aromas of ripe stone fruit, a hint of herbs and a fine dusty minerality. Starts off on the palate with an almost steely acidity, but then changes towards a more generous expression of fleshy peach and mild herbal notes. Just seems to lack a little in tension at this moment in time. (MS)

Vibrant, inviting aromas of passion fruit, lemon oil and pine nuts. The dense nectarine fruit and bright acid structure are both thought-provokingly deep and charmingly light. With an almost ethereal density and an intriguingly complex finish, this is my call for the finest dry riesling of the vintage--the same honor bestowed on the 2003 in our ten-years-after tasting and a tribute to its ageworthiness.